Hi guys, I'm going to hopefully explain to you clearly how to change the springs on the front of your car and also how to change your shocks if you are uprating them too
TOOLS
STEP 1
The first thing to do is to remove the cap over the top of the mount under the bonnet.
STEP 2
Using the 9mm socket and the 18mm drop neck ring spanner, loosen but DO NOT fully undo the nut on the mount.
NOTE: This may be very tight so a bit of WD40 may give you a bit of help
STEP 3
With the car in gear and with the handbrake on, loosen the wheels nuts of the relevant wheel.
STEP 4
Jack the car up and support with axle stands and then remove the wheel.
STEP 5
Using the 13mm socket, remove the two bolts that hold the strut in place at the top.
NOTE: On the drivers side all of the wiring may be in your way of one of these 13mm nuts. If this is the case then using a 10mm socket remove the two nuts (in green) holding the wiring casing in place, and just move it out of the way to gain access to the 13mm nut (in red) which is underneath.
STEP 6
Using the 18mm socket and 18mm spanner, loosen and remove the two bolts that connect the bottom of the strut to the brakes.
STEP 7
With a bit of gentle persuasion, you should be able to remove the whole unit.
STEP 8
Now you want to use the spring compressors to take the force out of the spring.
STEP 9
Once that's done you can fully remove the nut that you loosened earlier on the top mount using the 9mm socket and 18mm drop neck ring spanner.
STEP 10
Remove the spring compressors from your old spring and then get your box of new ones
STEP 11
Put your new spring on the strut (or onto your new struts if you have them) making sure that it sits properly and has been put on the correct way. Then put all of the other bits back together and tighten the nut on the top mount enough to hold it all together.
STEP 12
Refitting is just a reversal of removing. Put the strut back in place and fully tighten the 13mm nuts on the top. Line up the bottom of the strut with the two bolt holes (this may require a bit of tapping from a hammer/mallet) and tighten the two bolts fully. Then tighten the middle nut on the top mount fully as well.
STEP 13
Put your wheel back on and hand tighten the nuts. Remove the axle stand and start to SLOWLY wind the jack down.
NOTE: At this point it is CRUCIAL that you lower the car on the jack slowly so that you can repeatedly check that the spring is sat properly.
STEP 14
Fully tighten your wheel nuts, double check everything else has been tightened and then release the car from gear and release the handbrake.
RESULT
VOILA! lowered
One last thing, don't forget to get the tracking redone once you have finished this job as it will more than likely be out!
TOOLS
- 9mm socket
- 10mm socket
- 13mm socket
- 18mm socket
- 18mm spanner
- 18mm drop neck ring spanner
- jack
- axle stands
- spring compressors
- adjustable wrench (or a socket or spanner the right size for you spring compressors)
- wheel nut wrench
- hammer/mallet
STEP 1
The first thing to do is to remove the cap over the top of the mount under the bonnet.
STEP 2
Using the 9mm socket and the 18mm drop neck ring spanner, loosen but DO NOT fully undo the nut on the mount.
NOTE: This may be very tight so a bit of WD40 may give you a bit of help
STEP 3
With the car in gear and with the handbrake on, loosen the wheels nuts of the relevant wheel.
STEP 4
Jack the car up and support with axle stands and then remove the wheel.
STEP 5
Using the 13mm socket, remove the two bolts that hold the strut in place at the top.
NOTE: On the drivers side all of the wiring may be in your way of one of these 13mm nuts. If this is the case then using a 10mm socket remove the two nuts (in green) holding the wiring casing in place, and just move it out of the way to gain access to the 13mm nut (in red) which is underneath.
STEP 6
Using the 18mm socket and 18mm spanner, loosen and remove the two bolts that connect the bottom of the strut to the brakes.
STEP 7
With a bit of gentle persuasion, you should be able to remove the whole unit.
STEP 8
Now you want to use the spring compressors to take the force out of the spring.
STEP 9
Once that's done you can fully remove the nut that you loosened earlier on the top mount using the 9mm socket and 18mm drop neck ring spanner.
STEP 10
Remove the spring compressors from your old spring and then get your box of new ones
STEP 11
Put your new spring on the strut (or onto your new struts if you have them) making sure that it sits properly and has been put on the correct way. Then put all of the other bits back together and tighten the nut on the top mount enough to hold it all together.
STEP 12
Refitting is just a reversal of removing. Put the strut back in place and fully tighten the 13mm nuts on the top. Line up the bottom of the strut with the two bolt holes (this may require a bit of tapping from a hammer/mallet) and tighten the two bolts fully. Then tighten the middle nut on the top mount fully as well.
STEP 13
Put your wheel back on and hand tighten the nuts. Remove the axle stand and start to SLOWLY wind the jack down.
NOTE: At this point it is CRUCIAL that you lower the car on the jack slowly so that you can repeatedly check that the spring is sat properly.
STEP 14
Fully tighten your wheel nuts, double check everything else has been tightened and then release the car from gear and release the handbrake.
RESULT
VOILA! lowered
One last thing, don't forget to get the tracking redone once you have finished this job as it will more than likely be out!