[Corsa D 2006-2014] Corsa Automatic won't start

[Bally007]

Hi

I have a Corsa Automactic which won't start.

The Break down person said the Battery is ok as it read 12.14v ?

Have tried Jump starting and using power station which has a built in Battery, but still no luck.

Any Idea on this as it's only done 45k and since I've had it, I only have done 1,000 miles in a year?

Thought it would be battery as I use the car once a week or two weeks.

I connected a Elm 327 ODB II but it reported no codes?

What could be the issue?

[Taurus]

Which engine, model, year is it?

Is it cranking over properly?

Any sign of the engine management light showing, or is it flashing whilst you are cranking the engine?

Any codes for the transmission showing?

(And something which sounds daft - but is a known issue with some auto-transmissions - check that the brake lights are working.)

[Bally007]

Hi

It won't Turn Over, I think the term is.

The Car/Spanner light come's on and stays blinking for around 20 secs after turning off the Car.

Year is 2008 Corsa Design 1.4 Automatic

The other Lights I presume are standard like the Battery Light?

The brake lights seem to be fine when I got a Friend to push the car forward a little.

[Taurus]

If it's not cranking over then I'd double check the battery first. It's the most likely cause. Remember that a discharged battery can still show 12v - check if it holds voltage when under load. So first thing I'd do is to remove the battery and give it an overnight trickle charge. Given that you don't use the car a lot that's where I'd double check before looking at anything else. Also, a healthy battery ought to read 12.5v, so yours is actually showing signs of being below par.

A blinking EML can indicate a problem with the immobiliser, eg if you've dropped the key or had it apart to insert a new battery. But I'd still check the battery first as they'll usually turn over with the immobiliser active, just that they won't fire up.

[Bally007]

Wouldn't jump starting at least started my car?

Also I tried my other key and still dead

[Taurus]

It depends how you jump start it. If you use good quality leads and allow the donor car to charge the battery for 15 minutes then yes it ought to crank over. But the usual trick of just attaching leads (and often cheap leads at that) doesn't do the job if your own battery is deeply discharged.

Once you know the battery is good, then if it still won't crank over check your fuses, then try giving the starter motor a whack with a wooden/plastic mallet. It might have jammed.

[Bally007]

It depends how you jump start it. If you use good quality leads and allow the donor car to charge the battery for 15 minutes then yes it ought to crank over. But the usual trick of just attaching leads (and often cheap leads at that) doesn't do the job if your own battery is deeply discharged.

Once you know the battery is good, then if it still won't crank over check your fuses, then try giving the starter motor a whack with a wooden/plastic mallet. It might have jammed.

Would a Power Station ( one with Battery built in) charge up the Orig Battery?
I had left this on the car for around 15mins to 20 mins and wouldn't still work a few days ago, before the Breakdown person came, and as I said above, didn;t think it was the Battery but Mechanical.

The ODB II I used today on a few bits of software didn't show any codes, unless it's not supported?

The Issue I have is, the car in on a Street and I can't find a way to lock the other doors (non-drivers) if the battery is taken out?

Where would I find the Starter Motor?

[Taurus]

A power station won't really charge the car's own battery, but if it's a good power pack and you know it's fully charged then it ought to at least turn the engine over.

If that's the case then once you've eliminated the battery move onto the power getting to the starter. The starter & solenoid are on the back of the engine down at the bottom, which makes it a pain to get at unless you can jack the car up and support it on axle stands. If you can raise the nearside even by pushing it onto a brick it ought to give you enough room to reach the starter with a stick to give it a tap. Is it making any sort of clicking noise when you turn the key?

It's always tricky to sort these things over a forum - what would be a series of simple checks takes a lot of words. One of the next steps would be to use a multimeter to check what power is reaching the solenoid when you turn the key.

If you haven't got a multimeter, or can't reach the solenoid connections another method is to get someone to turn the headlight onto full beam and then turn the ignition key to the start position. The lights should be bright if the battery is good. When you turn the key check what the lights do. If they go out then the battery is collapsing under load. If they dim slightly then the starter is getting power but the battery is holding good. If they don't dim at all then it looks like the starter isn't drawing any power. Crude - but it usually works.

(It doesn't do any harm to include your location in case someone close has a multimeter and can check for you.)

[Bally007]

See post below

[Bally007]

Thanks for all the info so far.

I asked a Local Tyre place if they could maybe visit as I was only a few Streets away.

They said they will try come over and try Jump Start with their van as my mates cars was a 1.2 Civic.

If not, they can maybe tow it to their place and maybe get it up on a ramp.

When I turn the key, it's like it wan't to turn over but just keeps flashing the Dash lights. The Car-Spanner Lights Flashes and stays Flashing when I switch the car off for maybe 20 seconds.

[Taurus]

The EML flashing is usually an indication of the immobiliser, yours may be different being a later model, but usually the immobiliser shuts the fuel supply off but allows the engine the crank over. Automatics can be different as there is an inhibitor switch in the transmission - at the back of my mind I recall one doing something similar and it was the inhibitor that was the issue.

If your battery has got weak it's not unknown for that to affect one of the control modules on the D - in which case it'll need reprogramming at a main dealership.

[Bally007]

Ok , they tried banging the Starter Motor but no good.

What should i be paying for a replacement and please in mind they spent maybe an hour trying to get it working at my place before towing it to their Garage.

Also , I don't know the pipe on the right or the Motor, Inlay Air something maybe, that is split and again, any idea what I should be Paying?

They did try banging the Starter Motor from underneath at the Garage but no good.

[Bally007]

Another question, How do you re-sync the Keys, just in case it is the immobiliser as the Garage has said, they can;t seem to get any power to the Starter Motor, which would mean, it is not pass down through the Key to switch on?

[Taurus]

Read the last bit I wrote in post 11 above. If they've checked the power to the starter then it's looking like it's that module fault, which is proving to be a common issue with Corsa D models where the battery has got low. If you jump start them it can blow the module, apparently there's an instruction in the handbook saying not to jump start them, or if you have to then to switch the headlamps on to reduce the surge to the module.

Have a read of this post which is on VXR online:

Okay guys, this is a heads-up about a problem I was called out to last night. If you have a 2007/early 2008 Corsa D this could happen to you too.

Lad with a Corsa D had a flat battery for a while and had bump started his car a few times. Yesterday, it refused to start at all, even when he put a new battery in.

I went out to see him and the EEPROM in his BCM (body control module) was corrupt. It thought his keys were from another car and tech2 told me that the module had failed and would need to be replaced.

If this happens to you, the car WILL leave you stranded and the AA/RAC/whatever man won't be able to get it going again. In fact, no-one without dealer level diagnostics (tech2, SPS, security access and maybe an EEPROM writer if it proves to be really stubborn) will be able to.

To get the car working again, I had to reset the module and program the unit from scratch with the latest software, program new code index, and pair all the keys to the car again.

To prevent big inconvenience and a potentially big bill for someone to go fix it:

- Get the BCM updated to the latest code index (v12) and software
- Replace the battery at the first sign of problems
- Do not bump start the car, under any circumstances

Here endeth the lecture

[Tim]

Daft suggestions but the pictures you have posted show 'N' have you tried putting it into 'P' and trying?