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Car backfiring, overheating, idling rough struggles to turn over.
Ooooh, nice... That's not good. The most worrying thing there I'd say would be the overheating, is it just getting hot or is it actually overheating? Like pissing water out etc?? The easiest thing for you to do at the moment, I'd say, is pull the plugs and inspect them, their condition will tell you a lot.
Ooooh, nice... That's not good. The most worrying thing there I'd say would be the overheating, is it just getting hot or is it actually overheating? Like pissing water out etc?? The easiest thing for you to do at the moment, I'd say, is pull the plugs and inspect them, their condition will tell you a lot.
It reached 100 degrees on a one mile trip down the road. I got to the traffic lights when the whole car started to judder as if it was about to stall.
That's when I noticed the rev counter going crazy.
First day of new job tomorrow. 6am start. Don't know how I'm going to get there.
If its misfire, pull plugs out and check too see if one or more is wet if it is then its not eating good spark. So you then inspect that ht lead. Then swap ht leads around to check if its that particular lead or just that cylinder.
Then remove coil pack and leave indoors overnight to remove any moisture. Hopefully this should change a bit.
It would be worth getting the fault codes read then - have you got access to a reader?
As you probably know checking the timing on those isn't straightforward because there are no timing marks, it's done using a timing kit. I have one if you need it.
Those engines are very intolerant of overheating so keep an eye on the gauge.
Has this come on out of the blue?
I'll ask the obvious just to make sure - any issues with oil and/or coolant?
To check for air leaks you can use a stethoscope with a trumpet attachment, or a thin stream of smoke (eg a joss stick) see if it's pulled in anywhere, or you can spray WD40 or lighter fuel gas around the intake - if there's a leak it's drawn in and you'll hear the idle pick up briefly. (Obviously be careful spraying inflammable materials around a hot engine.)
It would be worth getting the fault codes read then - have you got access to a reader?
As you probably know checking the timing on those isn't straightforward because there are no timing marks, it's done using a timing kit. I have one if you need it.
Those engines are very intolerant of overheating so keep an eye on the gauge.
Has this come on out of the blue?
I'll ask the obvious just to make sure - any issues with oil and/or coolant?
To check for air leaks you can use a stethoscope with a trumpet attachment, or a thin stream of smoke (eg a joss stick) see if it's pulled in anywhere, or you can spray WD40 or lighter fuel gas around the intake - if there's a leak it's drawn in and you'll hear the idle pick up briefly. (Obviously be careful spraying inflammable materials around a hot engine.)
Best of luck with the new job by the way.
Thank you Taurus.
Was still playing up this morning so got the codes read.
Diagnostics show that the EGR valve is at fault.
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