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  • [Corsa D] Engine Overheating

    To all the knowledgeable Vauxhall owners, help needed please with a overheating problem we have with my sons 2011 reg 1.2 petrol corsa D which is overheating.


    I have done internet searches but nothing i have dug up quite matches our problem, i will give as much info as i can and fingers crossed someone can point us in the right direction.





    I have accessed the secret menu and monitored the engine temperatures from cold.


    When the engine is started the temperature rises over a 30/40 minute period to around 90/95 degrees, the engine cooling fan does not run.


    Another 10 mins the temperature rises to around 100/105 degrees, still no fan.


    A couple more minutes temperature reaches 107 degrees and the coolant starts bubbling and spilling out all over the engine from the safety blow off on the side of the expansion vessel, still no fan.


    Oil is clean.


    Water is clear.


    Expansion bottle cap seems fine.




    So the problem appears to be the fan not turning on and cooling the engine. I have checked the manual and have realised that when going through the above procedure that if i pull the two 30 amp fuses in the engine compartment (noted in the manual as fuse 8 & 9 engine cooling) when the engine is running and immediately reinsert them that the fan will start and the engine temperature drops as expected. This kick start of the fan happens at whatever temperature the fuses are pulled and reinserted.


    I have also noticed that when i do this that


    1 - the fan will now run constantly until the engine is stopped and once restarted the same problem of no fan and overheating returns.

















    So any ideas, i am thinking maybe faulty thermostat or sensor possibly.


    Sorry for the long post and Thank you in advance, any help greatly appreciated.

  • #2
    Get the car up to temp and check all the hoses are hot, there's two hoses at the back of the engine bay that go through the baulk head to the heater , check that both are getting hot and the two hoses that go to the radiator are hot as well, that will tell you that the water pump and thermostat are working.
    Also the coolant temperature sensor must be working as you can see the temperature in the hidden menu.
    Look down at the bottom right hand corner of the radiator and see if you have a resistor pack on the radiator they do play up sometime.

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    • #3
      Cheers mate, tried this today with my Brother who is a bit more mechanically minded. We run the engine until temp hit 99 degrees, my Bro then slowly released the expansion bottle cap and there was no pressure released when removed. He then squeezed the water pipes going into the rad with no movement in the expansion bottle when the pipe at the top right of the rad was squeezed but fluxuation in the expansion bottle when the lower left pipe is squeezed.It seems like there is no water at all in the top right pipe connected to the radiator but the expansion bottle contains the right level of coolant.Would I be right in now thinking it is probably the thermostat stuck in the closed position and not allowing the water to circulate around the engine?

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      • #4
        It could be the thermostat or a blockage in the coolant system, heater matrix, radiator ,water pump. When you change the thermostat refill the coolant system like this.
        Have both the radiator hoses disconnected, expansion cap off .
        Start by pouring the coolant in the long hose that go's to the bottom of the radiator, when it start to come out the hose quickly push it on to the water pump . Next start pouring in the top hose until it starts to come out of the hose and quickly push on to the thermostat housing and secure all hoses, then top up using the expansion bottle. Give the bottom hose a couple of squeezes to push the last bit of air out .

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        • #5
          as above the thermastat does not not fail in the closed position, it is designed to fail if it does, in the open position so the engine still has full water circulation. My Corsa 1.4 runs at 103C with no problems. Suspect water pump on yours. . The new corsa"s ie 2010/11 run at higher temperatures, mine gets to 100 in about 5/8 minutes.
          Last edited by DURGAMAN80; 06-02-2018, 01:03 PM.

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          • #6
            Thank you for all the advise, fingers crossed it looks like the problem was just a faulty expansion bottle cap.

            Cheers,

            Steve0

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            • #7
              Hi Steve, did the expansion bottle cap fix the problem? did you have any warning lights on dash?
              Just bought a 2010 corsa d eco and have a similar problem. Badly overheated after a 30 mile run, water boiling over, no warning lights at all on the dash, electric fan was not running, heater works fine in car and no water/oil mix in oil filler cap. Any help at all Steve or anyone else reading. Cheers

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              • #8

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                • #9
                  good news, did any warning lights come on the dash when you had overheating problem ?

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                  • #10
                    If the cooling fan is not working at 107 degrees i would suggest that not only the cap is your issue .. As some people written above - thermostat might be not operational as well ...

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                    • #11

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                      • #12
                        I'm in the middle of a engine rebuild at the moment. Will try and do a video of how I refill the coolant system back up.

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