No announcement yet.

1.0 life 53 plate corsa won't start

  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • [Corsa C 2000-2006] 1.0 life 53 plate corsa won't start

    Car only starts when jumper cables are attached, runs fine until I take the keys out and then it makes a ticking sound when I try turning the keys without jumper cables

  • #2
    Your battery is dead. It may take a charge off a trickle charger. If not it will need replacing.

    NB - Alternators do not fully charge a flat battery. The replace the charge used to start the car, but if you jump start a car with a flat battery you can drive a long way and the battery will still be flat next time you come to restart the car.

    The ticking noise is the solenoid making connection, the battery then collapses as soon as load is applied, then the solenoid disengages. Then it re-engages - and so on.
    1972 Viva restoration thread -


    • #3
      Thanks a lot!!

      So I should connect trickle chargers and leave them in and then if that store some charge, get a new battery?


      • #4
        What kit have you got? The two things that will help you most are a trickle charger and a multimeter (to read the battery voltage).

        If you've got a multimeter set it to read DC voltage and check the battery voltage with the engine off. It ought to read above 12.5v. A discharged battery should still read around 12v, if it drops much lower than 11.5v many chargers won't charge the battery as it is heavily discharged.

        With the engine running the voltage across the battery terminals should be above 13.5v.

        A simple multimeter is dirt cheap and you'll use it for all sorts of things so well worth having.

        I'd try charging the battery overnight, watch the current gauge on the charger. It will usually read quite high - on trickle setting around 4 amps. Then it will quickly drop to 1-2amps. Leave it overnight. Then see if the battery holds that charge.

        Coming back to a deeply discharged battery.....most standard chargers will not charge a totally flat battery. The charger current gauge will flick up to 4amps, then drop to 0 within a few seconds. At that stage most people assume the battery is dud and replace it. It may be - but not necessarily. I run all my cars on batteries other people have thrown away.

        A totally flat battery needs 'priming'. A modern intelligent charger will do this automatically. (eg the CTEK models). If not then you can use any low amperage charger for gell cells. Maplins sell them. A 12v 400Ma charger connected to a totally flat battery will raise the voltage within about 4 hours to the point where a standard charger can take over.
        1972 Viva restoration thread -


        • #5
          So all in all should I buy this "Ring RSC604 12V 4A Multi-Stage Smart Charger" from maplins and give it a go


          • #6
            I put a charger on it and the voltmeter read 6.5 then jumped to 8.5 then back down, the charger wouldn't let me change the mode for 6v battery mode as it thought the battery was a motorcycle battery. Does this mean the battery is completely dead? Bit weird how it starts up straight away when jumper cables are attached though. Also the electric locking started working again but it just makes the locking sound and the lights flash but the doors don't actually lock. Could the reason just be faulty connections?



            • #7
              Motorcycle batteries are 12v - unless it is a very small & very old bike. If a battery is totally dead it can be tricky to charge (see what I said above re. 'priming' the battery).

              The link to the charger above doesn't work so no idea how good it is. Most Ring stuff is pretty budget quality though.
              1972 Viva restoration thread -


              • #8
                the one I bought was from amazon and the reviews say it's better than some CTEK models. When I connected it all it flickered from 6.5 to 8.5 and then the charger said the battery is dead after 10 mins. It's all strange as the battery was working fine until I let the car sit for a few weeks as I ran out of insurance.


                • #9
                  Are you sure you're reading it right? Chargers usually read the current rather than volts.

                  Batteries can die in all sorts of ways. The last one I had was 14 years old in my old Vectra. I knew it wouldn't last much longer. One day it was fine in the morning, then just completely died at lunchtime. No warning, no signs. The previous one lost a cell and died slowly over a period of months. My motorbike battery that died last year started the bike fine to get it out of the garage, then just completely collapsed under any kind of load. Checking with a volt meter at rest showed 12.8v which looked healthy, connect a single bulb to it and it instantly dropped to 0.5v.

                  All the signs are that your battery needs replacing. Letting an older battery stand for a few weeks can be a killer. A car battery is actually six 2v batteries (cells) all joined in series. If one cell is weak and is left to discharge the remaining cells can effectively try to recharge it. When that happens the cell reverses polarity and it kills the whole battery. It used to be a killer on the older NiCad packs used on model aircraft. One those you could remove the bad cell and salvage the rest. Not possible with a car battery of course.
                  1972 Viva restoration thread -


                  • #10
                    Yeh, it's definitly voltage, the charger said it will only charge a 12v battery if the voltmeter shows at least 7.5, but every time it went above 7.5 it would just flicker straight back down to 6.5. I think I just let the car sit for that 1 day too long and the battery is a goner :/ don't think its worth the money to buy a new one