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  • [Non Corsa] little smokey

    hi there,

    i have bough a vauxhall astra 05 plate petrel 1.6 16v 110k mile

    when it starts from cold it is a little smokey but not blinding for about 1-2 minutes then fine the only over time i get the smoke is when i have stopped at lights or a junction for a minute then smokes abit as i start to put off then fine again, the smoke looks white (hard to tell as im color blind) in the rear view mirror.

    there is a little oil leak on the back right rocker cover as you looking from the front of the car, it had a service just before i got the car so hard to tell if it is using oil or water.

    any ideas would be great

  • #2
    Classic symptoms of valve stem oil seals leaking
    1972 Viva restoration thread - http://www.thecorsa.co.uk/projects-b....html#post1534

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    • #3
      any idea how easy they are to do or what sort of price range for a local gauge to do?

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      • #4
        The parts are pennies - but it means taking the head off. Depending where you are in the country I reckon most workshops would charge the same as doing the headgasket - so you're looking towards 3-400.

        It's not a difficult job, just time consuming. At that kind of mileage it's worth giving the valves a grind whilst you're at it.
        1972 Viva restoration thread - http://www.thecorsa.co.uk/projects-b....html#post1534

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        • #5

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          • #6
            What treatment did they put in? Oil leak treatments only swell the seals temporarily and then usually make things worse.

            3 litres in 250 miles is way more than valve stem seals would use, and if it's losing coolant as well then there's something else amiss as well. If you've only recently bought the car was it a trade sale and do you have any warranty?

            Keep a very close eye on oil and coolant levels, and on the temperature warning.
            1972 Viva restoration thread - http://www.thecorsa.co.uk/projects-b....html#post1534

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            • #7
              i would say trade sale as i dont have any warranty and i dont know they just said they had put some treatment in that is all it says on the receipt to

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              • #8
                If you bought the car from a dealer (ie not private sale) then if it's clearly showing signs of a problem straight away take it back and tell them to fix it. To sell a car with a fault is selling a product which is not fit for purpose. If in doubt consult your local trading standards.
                1972 Viva restoration thread - http://www.thecorsa.co.uk/projects-b....html#post1534

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                • #9
                  can anyone give any tips or help, im going to work myself but i cant get the crankshaft bolt/plug out. someone has rounded it off before to the point i cant do a thing with it, it looks like a sump plug with a internal torque fitting so does anyone know a way to remove it or another way for me to lock the crankshaft off. the engine code is z16xep if that helps. i have tryed mold grips but cant get in no room tryed to get a nut splitter on it but that was to fat to get it on so im a little lost on how to lock it off.

                  im going to valve stems,water pump, timing belt kit , fan belt kit to replace at the same time
                  Last edited by evolutionuk; 29-04-2016, 11:59 AM.

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                  • #10
                    I'm a bit confused - are you talking about the crankshaft pulley bolt? They are usually pretty solid, you're unlikely to shift it with mole grips. But from the description it sounds like you're talking about something else - are you using the Haynes procedure - because for that engine you usually lock the crankshaft by getting someone to stand on the brakes whilst it's in gear - or lock the ring gear.
                    1972 Viva restoration thread - http://www.thecorsa.co.uk/projects-b....html#post1534

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                    • #12
                      You have linked to an on line manual. It may help if you also say which chapter,drawing number and bolt number you are referring to. Locking also appears to require inserting special tools. Have you got these? If not there may be no point in removing the bolt,if there is an alternative method such as those suggested by Taurus.

                      I am not clear how a nut splitter would help on a bolt head. If a rounded bolt must come out and you have room I find a stilson type wrench sometimes works better than mole grips as it tightens as you apply pressure. But it mangles the head.
                      Another possibility is to grind/file new flats or whatever, in situe,using a file,or a dremel or similar.It would be very difficult to reproduce a new ,smaller sized, bolt head for a ring spanner or socket but two parallel flats for an open ended spanner might get you out of trouble.But you need to get an accurate tight fit to your chosen spanner. On small bolts cutting a simple screwdriver slot across the top of the head might work. It needs to be central and a good fit for the screwdriver.
                      Problems working on cars often seem to revolve around the apparently simple instruction 'remove bolt'

                      You may find a haynes manual more user friendly for a DIY mechanic than that on-line manual .. 'open bonnet'? Never would have thought of that! But 'raise car to full height' and inserting special tools is more pro orientated.
                      Last edited by Bugman; 30-04-2016, 09:24 AM.

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                      • #13
                        thanks for the replys guys the number on the guide was 35-36 ive done head gaskets and seals before i was just having trouble finding the lock off, but it was behind the air-con pump and some stupid person has rounded it off. i have the tools now to lock the flywheel from where the start motor bolts on, sorry about my replys they was not every helpfull i was raging at the guys that rounded it off.

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                        • #14
                          hi all
                          well i have changed the valve stem seals put the thing back together the car starts fine, first turn of the key now every time but the car will stall after a few minutes i have nottested that the fan is not coming on at all so i was thinking the car is stalling from getting to hot as i dont have a temp gauge. do you guys have any key places to check for reasons why it might not work?

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                          • #15
                            i was thinking could my timing be a little out as the car starts fine runs a few minutes then stalls? as the fan might not be coming on to the car not getting hot enough for it to cut in, i read some where that i can use the opcom reader to turn the fan on manualy if so can someone tell me how or where i can find out to rule the fan out.

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