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Opel Corsa B 1999 1.6 i.e - Overheating ?? - South Africa

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  • [Corsa B 1993-2000] Opel Corsa B 1999 1.6 i.e - Overheating ?? - South Africa

    So i would like to flush my radiator using vinegar but i know my top left hose (outlet) is an extreme tough one to take off. I am scared i can not put it back on - im not really a DIY or arm strength guy. Also I am not sure if i can circulate the vinegar entirely in the system and HOW i can do this? I am trying to resolve a heat issue.

    My car has been running hot , in my opinion.
    My mechanic says it seems fine.
    From what i remember and my experience with the car is that when i drive the temperature gauge sits at around 91-92 and the fan should come on at about 95.
    Maybe i am stressing too much or maybe i am worried too much for nothing.
    It just seems that NOW my car is seemingly hot, i dont know.
    When i get out the car and stand by the wheel or n the front of the bonnet WITH the bonnet closed, i feel this heat coming off the car , is this normal?

    My gauge was NOT working from probably November up until a few days ago.
    On Tuesday 9 Feb my gauge was fixed.
    Now that i can see my gauge , i am scared.

    I remember my car from way back , when it does the first first drive , and i dont know what this is, if it is a precheck or some check that the car does or what it is, but the needle moves rapidly up and then down to normal temp.

    My scenario now:
    When I first drive my car my car in the morning for the first drive.... the gauge RAPIDLY moves from neutral position which is below 90, and then it RAPIDLY as i say, moves to 100 exactly BUT not in to the RED. And then as i am driving the needle moves RAPIDLY down to a little over 90 , might be 92 i dont know. When i get to traffic lights it gets to 95 and the fan comes on.
    I dont but too me this sounds a bit too quick.

    I have JUST-JUST changed my Thermostat thinking it might be the problem, ask my mechanic. Looks like the same thing, i dont REALLY see an improvement, I just wasted 500 Rand, maybe?
    I am going to drive for the first drive this morning and see what that initial gauge reading is like.

    Anyways, i was just thinking , what else can cause this?

    OR do you guys think i am being silly here and my car is fine?
    Do you have anything i can check or do , maybe idle the car and tell you how long it takes until the fan comes on , and when it goes off and when it comes on again? i dont know , i want to cry.


    What worries me is that it does not seem to be normal temperature.
    I am pretty sure it was 90-92.
    Anyways if i make a video i think this is better for you to analyze for me.

    my water is not boiling.
    hmm, what i do know is that i added like 2 litres of concentrate anti-freeze (made in germany HEPU) to the system. I was reading now and some sites say its not good to put a lot of anti freeze. I am not sure how much liquid is in my system as a total.
    What i can also add, is that when i my car is at 95 and the fan comes on, i find that it is hard for the temperature to go back to 91 OR whatever it should be.

    My mechanic did use a lazer gun when thermostat was changed to check for me, and it was definitely hot on the one pipe the top left and the right side which is also more or less at the middle top of the radiator, that pipe was slightly cooler. I dont remember numbers exactly , but say 5 degrees difference.
    The engine seemed to be 105 and one pipe was in the mid 90's and the other was in the low 90's.

    Comments if you have...
    I will try to post the video i have and i will try to make a new one.
    Dont have the best equipment for videos and i cant drive while recording, so its very hard need to use rip ties and stuff. will try
    Last edited by lankyman; 14-02-2016, 07:14 AM.

  • #2
    Opinions vary on the use of aggressive cleaners. Vinegar is a very old remedy perhaps more suited to very old cars and 1930's incomes.If at all. If you must flush a propriety product may actually work out cheaper and you can follow their instructions.

    Your temperatures seem fine to me,especially as its your summer. But thats easy for me to say,its not my engine at risk.You need to be sure.
    Its possible the repair to the temperature gauge altered its sensitivity from what you were used to.

    The rapid temperature changes may indicate you have an air lock in the system,possibly when you added the antifreeze. In effect its not actually full of coolant and not pumping round properly. You normally need to add it very slowly and gradually. This can happen even with a brand new radiator. Maybe this is the cause,not actually a clogged system.
    I cant say how much coolant your system holds.Your car was assembled in SA and the radiator etc probably differs from european specification. I dont know what strength antifreeze is normal in sa. It needs some ,if only for its anti corrosion properties.
    It can be too strong. It depends if you bought concentrated antifreeze, or a ready mixed coolant that is already diluted to a suitable strength.
    Temperatures can vary throughout the cooling system. Heat rises,It comes out of the engine hot and is cooled by the radiator etc- a complex thermal cycle.

    Its normally harder removing a hose than replacing it. It can get damaged . Replacement is quite easy if you lubricate the rubber with some gentle soap or washing up liquid.
    Last edited by Bugman; 14-02-2016, 01:00 PM.

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    • #3
      You're ****ing mental

      Comment


      • #4

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        • #5
          Corsa B gauges were never that accurate anyway, and loads of them the fan never ran until it was nudging the red mark on the gauge. Lots of people used to panic about it and fit an override switch. Easy to do, just bridge the wires on the radiation thermoswitch, un a two core cable to the dashboard and fit a switch. 5 amp cable is fine because it isn't carrying much current. The switch only triggers the fan relay and that's where the load goes through.

          The other thing is that they are prone to airlocks in the system so if you've added antifreeze have you bled the system? You need to fill them really slowly to avoid airlocks.
          1972 Viva restoration thread - http://www.thecorsa.co.uk/projects-b....html#post1534

          Comment


          • #6
            Okay , so thanks everybody for the comments.
            When the car has been standing long - My initial drive in the morning/night , the temperature gauge indicates a normal temperature now after i changed the Thermostat.
            As mentioned before, it was going from start mark past 90 past 95 and then to 100 rapidly and then down again to the 90+ mark.

            NOW i get start mark past 90 and then to 95 and then it goes back to 90. As i tried to confirm here and / or just make mention, i am not sure if this is a OPEL thing where it does this as an initial check or something.

            What I can add is that the Thermostat we took out looks as if the part that moves was offset in the center so it may have been rubbing, SO it is possible it was just time to change it ?!

            Anyways, what i am NOW still concerned about...

            If i drive on the freeway the temperature stays 91-92 around there , as soon as i get to a traffic light it still okay , a couple of roads and more traffic lights.
            I am not even talking heavy traffic here.

            The fan will then come on as it gets to 95 , AND for some stupid reason the gauge can even still go to 96/97. However , I have seen it hit 95, and then drop to say 93 or whatever.
            When i hit more free road then i do remember it would drive close to 90 before... (i think) i wish i can clearly remember. I was driving with the gauge not reading properly from November to Now because the wire was loose - this was fixed on Tuesday past.
            I am not sure BUT it seems to struggle to get below 95 and then back to say 91/92 even. Unless of course i am on a nice flat road and cruising again for at least 1 KM.

            Am I worrying too much here? or do i need to see if something else is wrong?
            My mechanic used the gun and he reckons it was all good to him.

            I guess i am just concerned because i dont recall the car struggling to drop below 95 before.

            One thing.... whats the easiest way to take air out...maybe i have air... i have seen some vids on utube, but if you can just tell me here in simple step - by - step sequence.
            I have also checked my radiator, i dont see plastic packets and funny things blocking the front of the car.

            What i can confirm however, is that my water level seems to drop , which is annoying.
            We have checked and we do see notable leaks when i park or whatever.
            My mechanic did hook up a pump thing to the water bottle and he pumped it up to like 22 lbs i think , he reckons it was double of the normal pressure.
            We checked say for 5 minutes, the needle did not drop. I mean maybe it did like micro millimeters, BUT easily notable, it didn't move.

            What he did do also for me is check my fuel pressure on the rail - the needle did come down, very slow.
            I kind of expected this because i have been having this stupid starting/cranking issue - another chapter to discuss.

            Another uncertainty, is that i am not sure what coolant ratio i have in my car.
            I know i flushed out my water, well i dont think i actually knew what i was doing, i didnt remove any hoses because i was scared to.
            I DID however remove my overflow pipe from the bottle and then i let that run down to the driveway/tray i used.
            I at the same time put the garden hose in the bottle, and i was getting annoyed because the bloody nozzle kept on coming off, im new to the whole garden and house thing, never stayed in a house before, always stayed in flats from the days of living and growing up here in Hilbrow, when it was european /and more foreign friendly.

            Anyways, so i know the water was eventually coming out in the tray clear.... and i did turn on the heater and put the fan on 4.

            I like let the car idle for a while.

            Anyways, i then filled the Bottle which is like 1litre . something. Like 1.2 litres i thinkm i put of this Made In Germany Anti Freeze Concentrate - its called HEPU.

            So thats what i have in my car now, unfortunately i do not know how much of water would be the remainder.

            I have also topped up say 500ml and then today i topped up say 300 ml of Distilled water.

            So yeh thats my story , morning glory, I just wish i can figure this stuff out and stop complaining and worrying about the car

            It has been good to me and i have always tried my best to get it seen to when it needed attention.

            Its done 270km +

            Anyways comments suggestions lovely, cheers,

            Comment


            • #7
              Temperatures sound fine to me. When you first start up the thermostat stops coolant circulating to help it warm up quickly. When its hot enough the thermostat opens allowing coolant to circulate through the radiator to cool it down. This results in a slight drop in temperature. On the highway air is passing through the radiator cooling it down to say 92. In heavy traffic there is not enough airflow and temperature rises a bit. When it reaches 95 the fan cuts in and cools it down again. I think you are worrying too much.Its easy to become fixated on a temperature gauge.They can become worry meters. If a trained mechanic ,using an independent laser thermometer is happy I'd say trust him.But see below about topping up.If you continue to have problems I dont think your mechanic would be offended if you try someone else.

              I am not saying ignore the temperature gauge completely .But its unexplained changes you need to be concerned about,not normal fluctuations. Raising from 92 to 100 in heavy traffic may be normal. Rising from 92 to 100 while moving on the open highway may indicate a problem.
              Equally its normal for a low temperature when you first start up. But if you have been driving for some time with it at 90 degrees and it suddenly falls significantly this may also indicate a problem. A sudden large coolant loss can mean the sensor has nothing to measure and this can sometimes result in a low reading even though the engine is very hot. But it might just mean the gauge has broken again.

              Its probably advisable to use a 50% antifreeze solution even in south africa ,which I now know can get snow. If you have lost track of the strength you can buy testers that suck up some solution into a glass tube and give a reading on a float.They are fairly cheap and readily available,at least in cold countries.

              But you should not need to regularly top up the radiator header tank. Its possible that air trapped in the system has already bled itself and what you added was needed to replace the air and its now fixed.
              If you do need to keep topping up there might be a leak somewhere. But bear in mind the correct fill level on a header tank bottle is usually only about half way down. They do not appear full. If you have been overfilling by topping up to the brim the excess may have automatically vented out each time under pressure.. And you should top up with an antifreeze coolant mix , not water as this will dilute it each time.
              Last edited by Bugman; 17-02-2016, 02:00 PM. Reason: Its cold in them thar hills

              Comment


              • #8
                It isn't possible to flush the system by simply disconnecting the hose that you did - what you have done is to give the expansion tank a good flushing.
                To flush the complete system, you need to disconnect the main coolant hose and get water flowing around the radiator core, the cylinder block and the head.
                If you do as Torus suggests and fit a simple over-ride switch to run the fan, you will have complete control of it

                Regards

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by Taurus View Post
                  Corsa B gauges were never that accurate anyway, and loads of them the fan never ran until it was nudging the red mark on the gauge. Lots of people used to panic about it and fit an override switch. Easy to do, just bridge the wires on the radiation thermoswitch, un a two core cable to the dashboard and fit a switch. 5 amp cable is fine because it isn't carrying much current. The switch only triggers the fan relay and that's where the load goes through.

                  The other thing is that they are prone to airlocks in the system so if you've added antifreeze have you bled the system? You need to fill them really slowly to avoid airlocks.
                  Sounds little advanced for me, bear with me, i will try ti read it again tomorrow as i took off from work.
                  Radiation or Radiator ? Thermoswitch not sure....need to see if i see what u mean, not sure what it looks like.
                  How do you route wire to your dash.

                  Agg anyways i think i dont need to do this.
                  So far i am happy, i trust not worrying too much now, My car seems to run at a better temperature.
                  I guess i want it to run as cool as possible because i guess i can suppress evaporation of water/coolant and also i think i would give better lifetime to the gaskets and engine parts?

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by walksall View Post
                    It isn't possible to flush the system by simply disconnecting the hose that you did - what you have done is to give the expansion tank a good flushing.
                    To flush the complete system, you need to disconnect the main coolant hose and get water flowing around the radiator core, the cylinder block and the head.
                    If you do as Torus suggests and fit a simple over-ride switch to run the fan, you will have complete control of it

                    Regards
                    Hi,
                    okay wait, trying to follow you , disconnect the main coolant hose? and then where do i stick the hose? in the coolant bottle still like i did?
                    but i dont get what u mean by the coolant hose? the one at the bottom of the bottle?
                    Can i take a picture of my engine bay ?

                    Comment

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