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  • [Corsa B 1993-2000] Slight loss of power, MAF Sensor?

    1.0 12v 2000 W reg

    Started to get loss of power couple days ago, engine light on and off. Cleaned MAF sensor. Made slight improvement.

    Changed idle speed control as it needed doing anyway, has made the ride even better, but still not quite there and the engine light is now permanantly on.

    Has the MAF sensor had its day, or could it be something else?

  • #2
    What code did you get?

    There are different kinds of AFM, the kind used by Toyota (for example) clean up well. Vauxhall ones usually don't, so if it's failing then a genuine replacement may be best.
    1972 Viva restoration thread - http://www.thecorsa.co.uk/projects-b....html#post1534

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    • #3
      Quick way to check it:
      Remove its plug.
      Drive the car - (the light will stay 'on') but if the fault no longer appears to be there, you need a new sensor.
      If the fault is still there, something else is causing the problem. In that case, I would suggest that you get the fault codes read.

      Regards

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      • #4

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        • #5
          Just gave it a drive with the plug removed from the MAF sensor and it seems to be ok. Now on cold startup the engine nearly cuts out. Could that be to do with the idle sensor I fitted?

          Starts up perfect when warm.

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          • #6
            Do one thing at a time. If you can get a genuine AFM cheap then fit it and check the starting after that.
            1972 Viva restoration thread - http://www.thecorsa.co.uk/projects-b....html#post1534

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            • #7
              I just hope that the second-hand sensor is better than your original.

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              • #8
                Not sure a second hand afm is a good idea. If new after market ones are no good,what chances a used genuine? It will have come off a car for a reason.Maybe it was a scrapped car,and because the car was running ,its assumed to be serviceable. Maybe they have even cleaned it up to look good.

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                • #9
                  Got the second hand unit, runs perfect. To soon to see if it starts up ok as the engine is warm. I'll have to wait until tomorrow.

                  The engine light is still on though. Does it need re-seting or could there be another problem?

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                  • #10
                    Get the fault codes read, then clear any that are there.
                    Run the car for a day or so and check the codes again - any codes that now show up, will refer to whatever is causing the light to come on.

                    Regards

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Is there no way i can re set the code myself, no trick or anything?

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        No - you need a code reader for those to clear codes out of the ECU.
                        1972 Viva restoration thread - http://www.thecorsa.co.uk/projects-b....html#post1534

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by walksall View Post
                          Quick way to check it:
                          Remove its plug.
                          Drive the car - (the light will stay 'on') but if the fault no longer appears to be there, you need a new sensor.
                          If the fault is still there, something else is causing the problem. In that case, I would suggest that you get the fault codes read.

                          Regards
                          Man i love this , i am going to test it. I have been having an issue with my car not cranking and starting. Never ever used to have this with my car, My mechanic whose is a specialist with Opel , well he loves the mods and stuff also but they starting to service other brand cars now also. Anyways, he tells me to ignore my issue and even if my car cranks for 10 second then ignore it, I kind of feel sad about this and i want to cry ,. I really want to resolve my issue, i have recently resorted to online forums, so hope i can get answers here. I am a newbie and I am not a mechanic BUT i want to learn the basics and most importantly i want to look after my car , I dont have money for a new car. So anyways a i have a whole write up of my issue . Following that i am trying to test a few components ....

                          I did not know that the air in take sensor can cause power issues and even petrol issues? really?
                          My engine light also comes on for me. I think i notice slight power degradation but i dont know, maybe i am not an expert in really feeling it.
                          I so know that my sensor i have now , for some reason it does not clip in to the harness connector properly so i am using a rip/zip tie at the moment, which is not working properly because the engine light goes on and off randomly. I know it is the sensor , because when i hold it and watch my dash board i can see the light goes off.
                          I dont know why the hell the sensor that came with the new air in take pipe i bought is slightly different to my original sensor.
                          Is it maybe possible that i can clean my old original sensor ?
                          I will or want to try unplugging the sensor completely though.
                          Also m interested to know if this causes issue when cranking a car .

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            It may help if you think of it in simple terms,like I do. If any of the following is wrong could an expert put me right. The ECU (electronic control unit) constantly monitors and adjust engine management by using sensors. Put simply It measures The quantity and temperature of air flowing into the engine,the temperature of the engine and from this decides how to meter the flow of fuel.How rich or lean an air/fuel mix is required for starting for instance.And other things probably. It then double checks the engine is running well by measuring exhaust emmissions. If all the figures its receiving agree its happy and all is well. But things can go wrong for two main reasons. Either a genuine mechanical fault such a blockage,breakage,lack of servicing,needs new spark plugs , etc. The engine cannot run properly. OR one or more of the sensor /metering devices is giving the ecu a false reading. It then meters the engine incorrectly and it either runs badly or not at all.
                            For instance if the temperature sensors are telling the ecu its a hot day when its actually cold the car may not start.It might start ok in the summer when it really is hot(yeah right) but not in the winter.Same with the engine temperature sensor. If it thinks the engine is cold when its hot or vice versa it may meter the wrong fuel mixture and it will be a pig to start.
                            Sometimes it will put the engine into limp mode -reduced power until you get it fixed.
                            Sometimes it can cope with no reading at all, such as when you disconnect the afm.Its better no reading than one thats wrong.

                            If your afm connector is faulty it may be the wrong afm for the car, which will give a false reading. Correct if it were a 1.4 but not for a 1.2 for instance.or just a faulty connector. At best it will be cycling between no reading and a correct reading. At worst it will be cycling between no reading and a false reading. It needs sorting even if the main problem lies elsewhere.
                            Your old afm might help in diagnosing the fault with the connector. If the connector is found to be faulty then maybe the old afm was ok after all.
                            Last edited by Bugman; 13-01-2016, 09:38 AM.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Bugman View Post
                              It may help if you think of it in simple terms,like I do. If any of the following is wrong could an expert put me right. The ECU (electronic control unit) constantly monitors and adjust engine management by using sensors. Put simply It measures The quantity and temperature of air flowing into the engine,the temperature of the engine and from this decides how to meter the flow of fuel.How rich or lean an air/fuel mix is required for starting for instance.And other things probably. It then double checks the engine is running well by measuring exhaust emmissions. If all the figures its receiving agree its happy and all is well. But things can go wrong for two main reasons. Either a genuine mechanical fault such a blockage,breakage,lack of servicing,needs new spark plugs , etc. The engine cannot run properly. OR one or more of the sensor /metering devices is giving the ecu a false reading. It then meters the engine incorrectly and it either runs badly or not at all.
                              For instance if the temperature sensors are telling the ecu its a hot day when its actually cold the car may not start.It might start ok in the summer when it really is hot(yeah right) but not in the winter.Same with the engine temperature sensor. If it thinks the engine is cold when its hot or vice versa it may meter the wrong fuel mixture and it will be a pig to start.
                              Sometimes it will put the engine into limp mode -reduced power until you get it fixed.
                              Sometimes it can cope with no reading at all, such as when you disconnect the afm.Its better no reading than one thats wrong.

                              If your afm connector is faulty it may be the wrong afm for the car, which will give a false reading. Correct if it were a 1.4 but not for a 1.2 for instance.or just a faulty connector. At best it will be cycling between no reading and a correct reading. At worst it will be cycling between no reading and a false reading. It needs sorting even if the main problem lies elsewhere.
                              Your old afm might help in diagnosing the fault with the connector. If the connector is found to be faulty then maybe the old afm was ok after all.

                              So much theory here, thanks.
                              I need to try digest it, im sure the original question by the poster will love it too.

                              How do you test a sensor? example, how can i tell if my sensor in the air in take pipe is fine?
                              Also, what is it actually called because i am wanting to use the correct name

                              I have an issue where the air in take pipe i bought included this sensor, BUT the harness plug on my car does not fit properly on it.
                              It is not clipping or latching.
                              Its as if the mold of the plastic is different, perhaps a different variation of the sensor.
                              I have used a rip tie to hold it in place BUT it is not doing a good job.
                              The engine management light come on and then goes off, its intermittent during my trip to home and work.

                              The reason i bought this new air in take pipe was because mine had a hole in it.
                              Also , i may as well replace my sensor as well.... but now, this stupid fitting issue.

                              I am trying to rule out components which might be suspicious, as i am trying to understand why my car does not crank and start first time:
                              My full story here:

                              ************************************************** ************************************************** ***************
                              My car USED to start fine (read on) in the morning and i park in an open garage at home -First time start.
                              My trip to work varies from open road to a little traffic.

                              Either way my fan manages to come on 0 times when heading home in no traffic.
                              It is a lot cooler drive even though i hit the freeway, because i have a nice open road to the flat i stay in.
                              When i go to work my drive is more traffic and when approaching the first robot my fan comes on and then of course when i enter the parking area in my work building the fan comes on. I would say the fan comes on about 2-3 times when heading to work.

                              I mentioned those 2 scenarios above because i am wondering about parking the car in a warmer and cooler state.

                              When i leave work i need to crank for a long long time (2-3 times and maybe 8 seconds) before the car actually catches and starts - i need to rev slightly as it seems to want to rev at about 300-500 RPM and not even the normal 900-1000 RPM.
                              I never used to experience this before (starting issue)
                              I would say that my parking at work is also open but in a basement structure.
                              It seems to be more warm and perhaps humid at times.
                              I dont live at the coast so i doubt humidity is a factor here.
                              *I have tested parking my car at a backward incline, not a frontward incline

                              I also can say that i have had my ORIGINAL ICV cleaned by my mechanic 2 times in the last 3 years.
                              I can also confirm that my car used to jerk alot on the freeway when lightly accelerating or just cruising.
                              My car still has this "slight , but very slight" jerk when you are cruising and you release accelerator and when you press.
                              It is definitely not a terrible "drag feeling" I have felt that on my ex-girlfriend's corsa. gosh it was terrible, it was as if it was suffering from brake binding or fuel starvation, im really not sure.
                              Interested to know what would cause that though - To explain it better, when you drive and you are driving at a speed of 80 o na nice smooth road no incline and you release your accelerator, your car should just king of "glide" , well i was not feeling that , i was feeling like a terrible "drag".

                              Back to my issue....

                              Is the ICV related to starts also as well as driving?

                              What is the story with humidity and stuff , is it related?
                              I get my car engine cleaned pretty often , maybe 4 times a year.
                              So i try to look after it.

                              More information to add here:
                              On the airflow pipe , there is that airflow sensor right? does that make a difference?
                              I ask this because that air pipe (mine had a hole in it) i had to buy from gold wagen and for some reason the plug on my car doesnt fit to clip on the sensor...
                              it fits but it doesnt seat enough to be able to clip on.
                              My mechanic just took out that sensor and put in my old one...
                              I am just wondering if that is a key part to this whole puzzle or if it is the offending part more of what i describe below...

                              My mechanic told me that my injectors are dripping or leaking so when i start the car it battles to start .
                              I still don't understand that well though because when i start the car at home summer or winter it starts first time...sometimes it might need a bit of a accelerator to help it catch....so that it can idle at the normal 900 rpm.

                              when i drive and then stop for say 1 hour (example at a shop) then try start it turns long maybe 2-3 seconds and then i MIGHT have to press accelerator to help it idle.
                              when i drive and then stop for say 3 hours then try start it turns long maybe 3-5 seconds and then i MIGHT have to press accelerator to help it idle.
                              when i drive and then stop for say 8 hours (example at work) then try start it turns long maybe 5-7 seconds and then i MIGHT have to press accelerator to help it idle.(might shudder - low shakey idle)
                              when i drive and then stop for say 12 hours (example at home) then try start it turns 1-2 seconds and starts- I might have to press accelerator to help it idle. (might shudder - low shakey idle)

                              General driving, stopping at traffic lights and parking in bays and whatever, the car idles fine at a normal rate (i would guess its about 900 rpm - i have changed my ICV also (gold wagen part).
                              The replacing of the ICV was done just to rule out that as a culprit. I have kept my old ICV and i have also cleaned it.

                              I think the time my cranking / starting issue my ignition pack was starting to fail and then of course it did eventually -I learnt the coil pack was only throwing spark out of 2 terminals.

                              At the time of dying....or gradual degradation :

                              my car was jerking on the freeway and one time i just stood still i unplugged my plugs then re-inserted them and the car surprisingly drove still but after 10 km or so the car started missing again....so hence the pack was broken or breaking properly, i managed to get home and surprisingly , it stopped jerking and it drove fine.
                              That night it might have broken properly after i was doing the test to figure out if the coil pack was working properly - discovery was that it was only charging 2 terminals and not all 4.
                              Anyhow i got a new ignition coil pack (after market) and my spark leads are at least only 2 years old now - Bogi is the brand or name which apparently is decent.
                              I also have regularly serviced my car and tried to see to issues when they arise.

                              Also , i am skeptical but how do i know if my plugs wires are connected in the proper order.... should i take a picture of mine?

                              Any ideas what we can still check ....
                              ************************************************** ************************************************** ************************

                              Its a tricky one to explain because of chronological order , but i have really tried to give the best explanation.
                              All i can confirm is that i have never had cranking starting issues, my car always used to start fine 2 - 3 seconds.

                              I just want to solve this issue, i cant understand how my mechanic who is an Opel specialist here, tells me to ignore it.
                              Last edited by lankyman; 13-01-2016, 04:42 PM.

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