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  • [Corsa D 2006-2014] Rear drivers door won't lock

    Help, 2010 corsa 5 door 1.2 sxi , Central locking not working on rear drivers side, have tried two different locks from the breakers with no success, what's the chances of the 3 of them having the same fault lol? Have also stripped the wiring out from the inside of the door an tested them for continuity an they seem to be fine, all other doors lock as does the boot just not this one, anyone else had this problem? When pressing the button on the key fob twice it kind of half clicks the lock but that's as far as it goes, nothing from the first button press at all then a half hearted attempt that goes nowhere! All 3 units that I have tried are exactly the same, thanks for reading an hopefully someone can help me out.
    Neil

  • #2
    Hi. I have never had this problem and dont really know the answer. But thinking logically (beam me up Mr Spock!) . I assume that central locking is activated by solenoids. Ie an electric current activates an electrical coil which moves a plunger backwards or forwards thereby locking or unlocking the door lock. If you are sure that the affected door definately receives its live current at the appropriate time, the same as other doors, it must be connected to the physical lock mechanism. As you say its unlikely that all three locks are faulty. But what exactly did you change. If its just an electrical part then maybe the mechanical part of the lock is jammed. The electrical solenoid is doing its best to operate the lock, but cant budge it. This could account for the half hearted attempt to work. If you have actually changed the whole lot, solenoid and lock mechanism, it could still be that something mechanical is jammed. Door locks sometimes have rods and mechanical connections that extend beyond the actual lock, to door handles, pop ups etc. Possibly a remote part of the mechanism is jammed in some way. Or possibly the lock/solenoid is receiving live current, but has a poor earth. just ideas. Can you get the mechanism to work when its connected electrically, but not fully installed mechanically?(allowing for an earth return)

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    • #3
      hi, thanks for the reply, all 3 lock units have everything built into them, everything else is free to move as should be, was going to try and open up one of the locks to see if there was anything obvious out of place but they appear to be a bit of a nightmare to open up,if I have time tomorrow I am going to strip the wiring and lock out of the door and plug it into one of the other doors to see if it works, failing that I have no idea what else to do with it

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      • #4
        Before you start it might be a good idea to experiment with one of your spares. Can you get it to activate off the car by jury rigging some wiring?Then see if you can get the one on the car to activate by jury rigging. Alternatively ,or next, you could try making up a jumper lead using a piece of electrical wire long enough to cross the car with suitable terminals at each end.Disconnect the wiring to both locks, but leave them in situe.Then using the jury rig connect the offside wiring lead to the nearside lock and vice versa. You will be able to tell where the fault lies by the way it migrates.If the offside electrics activate the nearside lock the wiring is ok.If it does not activate you know the wiring is probably faulty. You can confirm this by seeing if the nearside wire,known to be good, can activate the offside lock . If the terminals are specialised it might be easier said than done. If you have to bodge something its probably best to double check the connection was good before trusting any results.
        Last edited by Bugman; 30-05-2015, 12:51 PM.

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        • #5
          Hi again,thanks for all your help,after a little bit more digging it turned out to be a broken brown/green wire where it enters the door pillar, the wires had been cut too short an over time the one in question has just snapped,unsure of why it would still send signals up through the door to the lock as I don't have a wiring diagram to show me what the wire is for,so soldering iron and some extra cables cut through them all and added enough for it not to happen again, once again thanks to all of u that took the time to reply

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