[Corsa D 2006-2014] Priming oil pump

[nezz]

Hi,

Just finished head gasket replacement on A12XER engine.
Oil pump and pick up apparently drained over few weeks sump was off.
New filter fitted (correctly).
Starts up but very tappety'. I suspect oil pump needs bleeding/priming.
Oil light on. Son I law acquired oil from work and although I gave him the specs, it seems quite heavy compared to the 5w 30 that goes in my Jag.
Any help appreciated.

[Taurus]

Shouldn't do - I've had the oil pumps off them and never primed before starting up. Did you remove the timing cover when you did the HG? ie - they can suffer oil pump problems if the timing cover isn't on straight.

When you had the head skimmed did the machine shop clean the head or did you clean it after it was returned. Is it possible there's a blocked or restricted oilway?

[nezz]

Yep did take cover off and it went on easily all bolts and dowels going in ok.
Head came back spotless.
Just had cam cover off and no sign of oil getting to head.
Ran for a few secs and no oil spotting in evidence.
Oil light on.

[Taurus]

Just seen the update on the original post - what is the oil he provided you with? You want 5W/30 for that engine.

Edit - Sorry, more questions:

I assume the pickup and pipe were cleaned when the sump was off.

No mention of the oil pump being removed from the cover - but if it was then you can prime the pump through the filling bolt on the front of the timing cover. There's a ball valve in there so you need a pump to inject oil into the system. Parts 13 & 33 on the schematic http://www.partsbase.org/opel/corsa-...etrol-engines/

[nezz]

Doesn't know grade, but It's a demolition company so god only knows.
I've emptied sump ad will replace with correct oil.
Sump and pipes thoroughly cleaned.
Didn't,t take oil pump off but engine cranked by hand a fair bit ad
was not run for 8 weeks.
Any idea why the crankshaft hub has a punch mark and it has to be at 11 o'clock when
piston 1 is at TDC.

[Taurus]

Sounds like the oil is just too thick then.

The crankshaft pulley has a nominal marker for No.1 TDC - I don't have a manual for the A12XER - previous versions the timing mark was at about 2 o'clock. If you use the timing kit which has a tool that locks the crankshaft via the hole in the front of the casing you turn the crankshaft pulley to the nominal mark, insert the tool and then slowly adjust the crankshaft until the tool locks into place.

[nezz]

There isn't a timing mark at all on the crankshaft pulley.
I used a thin screwdriver to find TDC and used a bar to slot in the recesses at the end of the two cam
shafts.
Everything lined up perfectly when head put back together ad new timing chain etc. fitted.
Car starts on the button apart from tappets, ticks over nicely.
Trying the oil pump prime today so watch this space.
The crankshaft pulley only fits one way due to the mounting holes being offset.

[Taurus]

The easiest way to find TDC on No. 1 is to look at the camshaft lobes - you know it's on No.1 for sure that way.

[nezz]

Todays sorry instalment!!!

Tried priming and nothing doing.
Took crankshaft pulley and hub off.
What I assume is the oil pump drive i.e. hub goes through it
is 'floating' and can be turned easily with small screw driver.
by floating I mean the not only does it go around it goes up and down and side to side.
The hub was going through it otherwise the hub would not have gone fully home.

[Taurus]

Oh dear - sounds like one buggered oil pump.

[nezz]

Ah!! Oil pump drive s supposed to instead of concentric cam lobes it is concentric, but instead of cams uses spring loaded plungers.
Head still being scratched I'm afraid.

[Stan0481]

Hi sorry for this if its way too late, im currently in the process of changing my Oil pump on my Corsa D, this is because the Flywheel sheared its bolts and trashed the clutch plate. So i had a mechanic fit a new cluth plate and flywheel for me as i felt that was a work shop job. He also inspected the timing chain and this was fine. Anyway to the oil pump, he changed the oil and filter and on first start up the Oil pressure light was on ?, tried changing the sensor to no avail. So i have now dropped the Sump and inspected it all was clean and pick up looks new as well, did notice that the Oil level sensor was just floating around in the sump ?? think the brackets have come away as there are twon marks that match the sensor frame, cant see this bein the problem though.

so i am now about the remove the Pump housing behind the pulley, now im not touching the timing chain just removing the casing, so surly i dont have the lock anything as its not getting moved or adjusted ? is my first question, then do i have to remove the water pump >> as it looks like the timing cover doesnt interfere with the pump ?? any way iv tried to remove the main bolt in that pully can anyone give me a clue or idea pf how to best get this off ? tried the haynes manual way with the two bolts but the bar im using is just bending them, right carry on this. 

Any way any help with this would be great of out tomorrow o buy some liquid gasket and a new timing cover gasket, also getting new pump parts as well might as well replace it. My thoughts are the pump is knackered after what ever happened to make the flywheel bolts shear Thoughts on this also 

Anyway I, new to the site but a Mech Engineer by trade, so its going ok really