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Had codes checked as engine light came on and off. Was the MAF sensor so had it replaced. Just got it back and its worse than before. Juddering and low power when trying to accelerate.
Ive read Spark plugs or HT leads could be on their way out, any truth in that and what else could it be.
Was it a genuine Bosch MAF you installed. Cheap aftermarket ones are often cause more trouble than they cause. If in doubt re. the MAF just unplug it. The engine will go to a default mode and the EML will come on, but the engine should run if it's just the MAF that's the problem once it's disconnected.
Old plugs and HT leads will cause poor sparks which will cause running problems, especially in cold weather and when the engine is under load.
OK - when the codes were checked were they cleared and then checked, otherwise the MAF code you got may have been an old one not related to the current problem. If it is still throwing a MAF code and the new part is genuine check the connections to the MAF.
The 12v engine doesn't have HT leads, the coilpack sits directly on top of the plugs. Check the underside of the pack where it connects to the plugs. Any sign of cracking or damage there will lead to moisture getting in and causing the ignition charge to arc to earth resulting in weak sparks. You won't get a code for a dud coilpack, but you may get either a misfire code or an O2 sensor code if unburnt fuel gets into the exhaust and throws the gases out of parameter.
Just disconnected MAF sensor and car works perfectly. Connected again and back to issues. Then tried again with it disconnected and back to fine. Faulty sensor then?
Yes - that's a sure sign that the new MAF isn't working. It is possible that the fault is in the wiring to the sensor, but more likely to be the sensor itself. Can you take it back to where you got it from? If you tell them the car works fine with the sensor disconnected they ought to know what that indicates.
I'm taking it back to the mechanic who ordered the part for me and ask his opinion about the issue. Will it be ok to run without the sensor connected for a while?
Turns out it wasnt a genuine part, thought it was. We tried another new one which worked better but still a crap ride. Ended up putting my old one back on and has been fine since. I'll replace with a genuine one if it starts again.
Just shows you what cheap crap there is out there.
Oh well - at least it's a simple fix if it plays up again.
With MAFs there are two types, one you can clean and one you can't. Vauxhall use the one that doesn't respond well to cleaning. Toyota ones are fine to clean. But since yours is known to be a bit of an issue you've nothing to lose if it plays up again. So if you get the problem and the code says it's the MAF try taking it off and spraying it with carb cleaner. Let it dry thoroughly before refitting - if you connect it when there is carb cleaner on it then it's dead. Chances are it'll destroy it - but since you've nothing to lose no harm giving it a go.
I don't usually suggest cleaning Vauxhall MAFs - only do so if you're already at the stage of throwing it away.
Since I always have carb cleaner I've never tried brake cleaner on a MAF - not sure what the chemicals are in it so I've no idea what it would do.
I use a produce for marine engines which is far better than automotive products - look on ebay for Quicksilver Powertune - it's something I always keep a couple of cans of on the workbench because if you are working on things that get gummed up or have carbon deposits on them it's the best thing I've found for cleaning them effectively.
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