[Corsa B 1993-2000] Can worn shock absorbers or rear axle bushes cause vibration during hard braking?

[gb33]

I recently replaced my Corsa B's front pads and rotors, and rear wheel cylinders, drums, shoes and bearings all in one go. Bled the brakes with a helper and even stuck a 5mm clear hose on the wheel cylinder bleed nipples to see that I had bubble-free brake fluid coming out.

I now get a vibration/rumble during moderate to hard braking. I narrowed the problem down to being the rear drum brakes only, because I have no vibration at all through the steering wheel, but if I pull the parking brake whilst moving 25mph I get the vibration.

I thought that I might've gotten a bad set of drums, so I bought another pair and installed new bearing races, but I still get the same vibration as before. I've tried every combination of swapping the four newer rear drums around and it doesn't remedy the situation.

The front of the car has newer Bilsteins and springs with under 15k miles and the front suspension/steering bushings don't exhibit any odd play, but the rear is on its original shock absorbers, springs and axle bushes (110k miles).

So as the title states, could this be the cause of the vibration? If not, any other ideas? Can vibration happen when the new brake shoes aren't yet fully mated to the shape of the drum?

[Vegas]

Have the wheels been balanced? And using correct pressure ?

[Taurus]

Basically - yes. If your rear brakes are working better than before then the rear shocks may struggle. You get the wheel lifting slightly which causes noise and vibration. At 110k the shocks will be weak at best.

[gb33]

Have the wheels been balanced? And using correct pressure ?

New summer tyres in May, but I'll double check to see if I'm losing air pressure.

Basically - yes. If your rear brakes are working better than before then the rear shocks may struggle. You get the wheel lifting slightly which causes noise and vibration. At 110k the shocks will be weak at best.

Good, then I'll replace the shocks and double check the bushes. One or both wheel cylinders were suspect before which led me to renew them along with the braking components in the first place -- so yes, braking is definitely stronger than before.



Question: if I replace the shocks, then where do I put the axle stands on the rear since I need to be able to drop the axle down? My Haynes says that if axle stands are used, they should be placed on the sills on either side of the jacking points, but I fear that they would bend or crush from this.

[Vegas]

Corsa are bit **** for this.

I tend to trolly jack it get axle stand underneath it so it's touching sill, but leave weight on jack. But if yours are clearly rotten, jack up on chassis rail (solid bit stops about half way down car. If you jack
Up there is should lift that whole side up

[Taurus]

If you put the axle stands on the lower lip of the sill they are plenty strong enough to take the car's weight. If they aren't then they need fixing anyway - one reason why I always use stands plus the road wheels under the car as well. If something crusty gives way then the weight spread across the surface of the wheels ensures you don't get squashed. (Having seen it happen it isn't nice.)

[gb33]

Good to hear that the sills are strong enough if not rusted or rotten (mine aren't). When I release the trolley jack screw to set the car on the axle stands I'll just be sure to do it slowly, along with the road wheels under the car as a precautionary measure.

[Alanco]

Hi gb,

I've got a set of rear shocks (off 1.0 12v) x reg- done about 60k - you don't mention where you are, I'm in London. If they are any good to you you are welcome to them

Al

[gb33]

Thanks for the offer, Alanco. I'm in Germany now so that's a bit far. I ordered a pair of KYB/Kayabas shipped for 54 euros so I'm not out that much.

[shed]

did you torque the rear nut to the correct torque 175nm or 129ft lbs ? wheel nuts are 80ft lbs or 110nm just a thought

[gb33]

Yes, everything torqued to spec per haynes manual.