[All Models] Hydraulic Brakes

[AJ]

I have been thinking about getting a hydraulic handbrake setup on the MX5.
The current stock system works, but could do with being a bit stiffer - I am able to drive away with the handbrake applied which I found out the other day.

How reliable are hydraulic handbrake systems and are they a simple fit or a pain in the rear?

[Vegas]

Why not just adjust the cable

[AJ]

Could do, but thought putting hydraulics in would be a learning experience

[Danny]

Not road legal are they?

[IainW]

Standard cable system has to be used too to pass MOT, hydraulic alone won't pass as if there is a split pipe the handbrake wouldn't work properly.

[Vegas]

I don't understand is all.
Standard engine standard brakes, then you want to change to hydraulics

[IainW]

I don't understand is all.
Standard engine standard brakes, then you want to change to hydraulics

I don't understand AJ's reason but many drifters have hydraulic handbrake setups. But yes I agree with your point about standard engine/brakes

[Vegas]

I know, but their whole cars have been set up to drift

[AJ]

My intention isnt to drift, it was purely to give myself something to tinker with.
If it won't pass an MOT, I wont bother

[dannyboy]

If you want to tinker with the brake replace all cables and brake shoes or pads what ever it uses?

[walksall]

Construction and use regs say, "Though shalt not park with stored energy". (fluid under pressure is stored energy)

What people seem to forget when they complain about hand brakes not holding (and drum brakes in general) is that the dust inside the drums tends to act like ball bearings.
Suggest that you remove the drums, de-glaze the linings,if need be, give everything a good clean, LIGHTLY lubricate the moving parts with copper grease (including the contact areas between the shoes and the back-plates) and put it back together.
Don't try 'adjusting' the HB cable until the auto adjusters have done what it says in their name - kepp applying the foot brake to achieve this.

Regards

If you remove the brake shoes, put a 'cable tie' around the cylinder to keep the pistons in - but don't forget to cut it off once the shoes are back on.
Also, if you are removing shoes, do one side at a time so that you have a reference if you forget where everything goes (or take lots of pics.)

[Vegas]

Auto adjusters always seize, and stop adjusting. The cable is definitely the easiest way forward.

Also have never used cable tie to hold pistons, and always been fine.

Nice tip though, I'll have to remmeber that one

[walksall]

The problem with tightening the cable without the auto adjusters being adjusted up, is that you can end up with the pistons being further out of the cylinders than they would otherwise be - the loss of efficiency due to this, may not be noticeable, but if you come to bleed the brakes, you end up with an air space in the cylinders that can be a real pig to bleed.

Regards

[Vegas]

It's an "if" though. I doubt it would be noticeable at all.

[Hardcore]

Adjusting via the cable is a bit of a bodge imo, unless it's a quick fix you're after.

I always adjust them via the shoes and take the lips off the drums at the same time.
Usually makes the pedal feel a lot firmer.

It's mostly the Vauxhall adjusters that seize i think. Other makes use different designs that are a bit less prone to seizing.