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X10XE Crank Sensor Nil Fix

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  • [Corsa B 1993-2000] X10XE Crank Sensor Nil Fix


    I started having issues with my corsa b x10xe, It would struggle to idle from time to time, and either cut out, or rev erratically trying to find idle.

    Also, whilst driving, it would feel like it was either being starved of fuel, or air, and would jolt back and forth, once recovered from the jolting, it would be sluggish to input.

    After getting it scanned, i had a Mas Air Meter fault, and P0335 - No RPM input/Crank sensor.

    I had the crank sensor replaced, non genuine part though, this didnt seem to fix the fault, and it continues to do as mentioned above.

    After having it re scanned, and live scanned whilst the engine is running, the P0335 fault keeps showing. Now we checked the wiring and connected on both the Sensor and ECU, and they seem fine, we didnt have a multimeter to hand the check the resistance through the crank sensor, so we couldnt see if we were reading the correct resistance (600 or 900 ohms, cannot remember)

    In the last 12 months, its had a new EGR Valve, Oil Px sensor, Crank Sensor & Back Box. I had a new air mass meter fitted a couple of years ago.
    It was also serviced fully in February this year.

    Now, we're stuck for ideas, has anyone else had this, how did you fix it?

    Our last resort is getting the ECU tested / repaired, or getting a second hand ECU fitted.

    What would fitting another ECU have in store?
    big job, not so big, what do i need to look out for? (I took a pic of all the numbers on my current ECU.

    Any help would be greatly appreciated, i need to keep my car going for atleast another year until im in a financial state where i can get another car.

    Also, I drove 170 miles yesterday, after 40 miles the EML came on, for about an hour, then went out, no notable drop in performance, maybe a bit slower with the accel than usual, but the engine now takes longer to light, the first start of the day, it kicks in right away, any other start in the day, it takes longer to ignite than usual, even when pumping the pedal.


  • #2
    Non-genuine crank sensors are usually fine. If the fuel pump is running then the ECU is getting a signal from the crank sensor which suggests it's working. You say you still get the code, but did you clear the old code? If not then the old code will still be present. In theory an old code won't cause a problem, but I've known cases where it has, so make sure the old codes are cleared. You need a code reader to do this on that engine. Opcom will do it for you easily.

    If you are getting an Air Mass Flow fault code then is the replacement AFM a genuine Bosch one? This is one sensor which must be the original type, aftermarket ones cause many problems. One easy test is disconnect the AFM, the ECU will then revert to a default setting and run the engine at lower efficiency but smoothly. So if you disconnect the AFM and it drives better then you know the AFM is a problem. (You will get a fault light of course but that can be cleared later.)

    The other possibility is that the timing chain has stretched, or the timing is out. The crank sensor and the cam sensor work in sync, if the timing is out then the ECU can throw a fault code due to it trying to figure out what's wrong.

    Work through one thing at a time. And put up your location in case someone close has opcom and is willing to lend a hand.
    1972 Viva restoration thread -


    • #3


      • #4
        It's worth taking the crank sensor out and just checking there's nothing stuck on the end of it, they're just big magnets so any bits of metal in the engine can attach to the end and that can throw them out. Check also that when it was replaced the old sealing ring was removed. I've seen new ones put in on top of the old sealing ring which causes the sensor tip to be slightly further away from the crank than it's meant to be. That causes problems as well.

        It's it still throws the code then I'd check the timing. If the crank sensor wasn't working at all then you'd get no fuel delivery. I'd take a punt on the timing being out and the code is coming up because the ECU is seeing the crank and cam timing out of sync.
        1972 Viva restoration thread -


        • #5
          The old seal was definitely removed, and the new sensor went in with its new seal.

          Ill take it out and check if there's no debris on it.

          Now you've mentioned timing, it sounds like a possibility, as sometimes, since the crank sensor change, when i start the engine from cold, there's a slight knocking noise from the engine, a metal, on metal sound, not the usual noise it makes whilst warming up.

          How big of a job is checking the timing, and whats the usual cost? They dont do timing chains at my brothers work, as they dont have the kit.
          I need my corsa for atleast another year before i can afford anything else, so its probably worth doing in the long run. Just a shame ive been throwing money at it since the beginning of this year, as it'll probably end up in a scrapper when i get rid, unless a 98 plate Corsa B with 55K on the clock appeals to anyone

          When i head home later today, ill get the engine scanned, as I've not been anywhere near my bros garage to see why the EML light came on.
          Last edited by Liamr685; 18-06-2014, 10:39 AM.


          • #6
            Checking the timing isn't that big a job. You need to take the cam cover off and you do need the timing kit (there's virtually no marks on the engine and you need to set the camshaft phase disc right).

            The knocking could be the timing chain - it usually sounds more of a rattle than a knock - but they can make some horrible noises. You get it for the first few seconds as it fires from cold.
            1972 Viva restoration thread -


            • #7
              Yeah, theres a normal rattle it had since new whilst it was cold, but now, when the engines cold, now and again theres the rattling, and a metal on metal knocking sound.

              They dont have the timing kit at the brothers work, do you have any suggestions where to got to get it done?


              • #8
                First things first - check what the knocking noise is. You need to make sure before you start chucking money at it.

                In terms of changing the timing chain, I don't know anywhere in your area, but just one thing, wherever you go don't let them fit a cheap chain kit. It needs to be OEM or it will wear out very quickly. Autovaux chain kits are good for those. Home ring the number on the website as the listings of kit isn't accurate.
                1972 Viva restoration thread -


                • #9
                  Ok, so I took my car back to my brothers, Him and another worker, checked the codes and the engine, the EML light was on due to the EGR valve, which we guess is a sporadic code, as it was replaced a few months ago, with no issues.

                  They listened to the engine, as it was warm, there was no clunking / metal on metal sound. (It did it when i started it up this morning though) But they did say the timing chain is loose, but its not the worst they've heard, its just a slight rattling whilst its running.

                  They did reccomend changing it, which i might do, but they dont think its the cause of my problem.
                  My brother mate in work can do the timing chain kit job, but not test it, so he said if you going to ghet it tested, I might as well get the thing changed. (Theres no history of it being changed since new, and its now 16 years old with 52K on the clock)

                  I managed to get a video of my car doing its 'fit' before, ill post it when its uploaded.

                  As a heads up, in the vid, it does this when starting from warm, or, whilst im driving at low speed and revs, changing gear or braking.


                  • #10
                    Just because it was replaced doesn't mean it's not faulty. Clear codes, and see if it returns


                    • #11
                      All codes were cleared prior to going to London and back, the EML came on three times since, whilst doing motorway runs, which was caused by the EGR incorrect feedback signal, which is the first time this has happened since the replacement of the valve 3 months ago, so we guessed this was thrown up because of the current issue im having. all codes have been reset again, P0335 still keeps coming up, will check again when i get the timing chain replaced.

                      Heres the video

                      Sorry about my text tone going off mid video.

                      Also, if you need me to record anywhere else in the car, let me know. I dont want to throw money at the car anymore.
                      Last edited by Liamr685; 19-06-2014, 02:43 PM.


                      • #12
                        It turn out the metal on metal clunking i hear when its cold, is actually a popping and thudding noise, no idea whats causing it, i have a vid im just uploading, will post it when its done.


                        • #13
                          Heres the new video,


                          • #14
                            That timing chain is knackered. I don't like making diagnoses via video since you've no clear sense of the source of the noise, but I'd be very surprised if that isn't down the chain being worn past it's serviceable life.
                            1972 Viva restoration thread -


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Taurus View Post
                              That timing chain is knackered. I don't like making diagnoses via video since you've no clear sense of the source of the noise, but I'd be very surprised if that isn't down the chain being worn past it's serviceable life.
                              I know the chain is in need of replacing, but, can you hear the popping and clunking noise, im concerned about that, I have no idea what it is, i first thought it was metal on metal clunking, but its more of a popping somewhere.