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  • [Corsa D] Engine oil

  • #2
    A difficult one to answer. Who am I to disgree with the manufacturers recommendation. If you are at all worried the safest thing would be to change it. Its not worth risking damage.
    But if the oil you used is the correct viscosity you could maybe remove a couple of litres by using an engine oil extractor pump through the dipstick, then top up with the correct spec.

    As far as I can see the A3/B3 specification is formulated to allow for extended oil change intervals, and for its better cleaning properties required by diesel engines. . I think correct viscosity is the most important factor. As long as the oil used is fully synthetic 5/30 it might be ok for a petrol engine for a while , changing the oil and filter again sooner rather than later. (maybe 6000 miles)

    But then its not my engine , and the oil I use is A3/B3 (although my car is diesel)


    • #3
      Diesel engines MUST have a detergent oil, otherwise they will quickly develop sludge, this is partly due to to the cooler running, which takes longer to vapour ise any condensate contamination in the oil.

      These little engines thrive on frequent oil changes - it has been said that the extended drain periods offered, is more of a sales pitch that it is of benefit to the engine. Items such as timing chain and cam profiles last MUCH longer with frequent oil changes.

      My general advice for any engine, is to use the oil SPECIFICATION listed in the vehicle handbook for the operating conditions in which the vehicle is most likely to work.
      NOTE: Oil specification is the long number NOT the viscosity.



      • #4
        Adhere to the manufacturer's specification.

        Oil has three functions: Lubricate, cool and clean

        I have learned (from a very experienced member that was on here) and it is my experience that engines, which use chains to drive the camshafts/valves should receive an oil and filter change at every 6,000 miles.

        The oil does not go 'thin' at that interval. even new oil will be 'thin' once it heats -- that is what the viscosity rating is for.

        The problem is that the detergents in the oil weaken and heat generated in the engine allows a 'crud' to deposit on the oil galleries and orifices that the oil can no longer remove.

        In particular, the chain on these engines is oiled by a tiny orifice. Any build up of deposits restricts the oil flow, leading to the chain receiving insufficient lubrication. It eventually stretches and this manifests itself in 'rattling' or the car sounding like a tractor...

        In extreme cases, a stretched chain can also manifest itself in starting issues as the timing of the valves is affected.

        You should also use a MANN or Hengst filter. The plastic 'holders' on other filters are not a perfect fit in the filter housing (at least on Corsa B and C). There is a risk of breakage resulting in plastic blocking the oil galleries when removing the filter. I have had experience where I had to strip an engine down to the journal bearings to remove pieces of plastic.

        One time lauded filter brands such as Crosland have been sold and all that remains of the quality -- in my opinion -- is the name. Crosland are now made in China and are owned by European Car Parts, if I am not mistaken.

        In any event, the price between a MANN and a filter of lesser quality is negligible and it is an important engine part .

        Also desist from using engine treatment/washes in the engine. If the oil has not been changed at the 6,000 interval, 'crud' may have amassed in the oil galleries. Using these treatments removes this dirt but one runs the risk of it blocking said galleries and thus the flow of oil to the engine parts.

        It is much better to change the oil regularly and let the detergent-containing oil remove any 'crud' over time.
        Last edited by zuluman; 24-08-2019, 12:03 PM.