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Corsa C 1.3 CDTI motor clicking/knocking noises

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  • #16
    It's diesel knock, mainly caused by dirty, clogged or sticking injector/s. If left too long and in bad cases it can actually melt your pistons. Like mentioned earlier on in the posts always make sure the basics are good first, fuel filter, air filter and oil fiter.

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    • #17
      And that's why adding the diesel additive made it worse? it loosened up too much crap?

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      • #18
        From the video I didnt think yours sounded much worse than mine. Which is why I have taken an interest in Tommy's and Walksalls advice. Mine is running fine at the moment and seems to improve after I have used an injector cleaner but could maybe do with the injectors looking at. Loosening up crap in the system could be a factor that may clear and improve with time . But i find that if you are concerned about a noise and concentrate on it , it can sometimes seem to get worse, when in fact it has not. Is this a possibility?

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        • #19
          Yes it seems to cycle and there is an underlining sound that is hard to catch.
          I am more worried about the car only starting up sometimes (usually after a long period of none usage), if I try to start it up too often it wont work....
          How do i help the engine get over a diesel knock?

          A super annoying addon to this is that my battery seems to be on its last leg, if i cant start the car within 2 tries the battery is empty so i gotta keep it plugged up into my other car battery to keep power running from there.
          Last edited by Sunrise; 21-04-2019, 05:51 PM.

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          • #20
            Here is a video of what happens when i try to start it now:


            Maybe it will match with what you know about diesel knock or another issue?

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            • #21
              If the battery is nearly flat then starting will be a problem, especially if the injectors are not yet 100%. The flat battery could be explained if you have been starting the car a lot for testing, but without the engine running for a long time to recharge the battery. How cold is it where you are? Are you following the correct cold starting procedure for a diesel? You need to turn on the ignition , but wait for a few seconds until the glow plug light goes off before cranking the engine. (sorry if this is obvious but some people dont know, or forget ,especially if they normally drive petrol cars ) |If you dont do this the glow plugs will not get hot enough and the car will be harder to start.

              Its difficult to tell from a video but the engine seems to be cranking slower than it should but possibly well enough to start .It nearly did.

              . I see you have jump leads attached and connected to another battery. If this were a good connection and the other battery fully charged I would expect the engine to be cranking and turning over a bit better than this. To start a car mostly from another battery needs quite heavy duty jump leads. Especially a diesel. Many sold as emergency jump leads have thin wires and clips and are not up to the job of giving enough amps. . Have you tried charging up your existing battery using a battery charger ? Or if your other battery is fully charged could it be properly fitted in the corsa temporarily ? You may find with a fully charged battery installed the car will start normally.

              If your battery is on its last legs this is a separate problem. If after being charged with a battery charger, it doesnt hold charge for long you may need a new battery. And if a long period of running doesnt charge it enough you may need to check the alternator.( could your elusive noise be from the alternator?)

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              • #22
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Name:	Injector Leakoff Test.JPG
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                • #23
                  Bugman - I am following the waiting process for a diesel fuel but my car was always weird about that, the heating coin sign would light only for half a second and would turn off - i would wait another 2-3 seconds and the car would start.
                  I was worried about that myself , any way to check if the heaters are turning on or not?
                  Its pretty nice weather right now, around 24 c.
                  and i might be able to start the engine with the other battery but probably wont be able to install it since its much bigger than mine.

                  TommyLT - I'v been doing some reading and seeing some videos about doing that test, it seems like there's a need for a special connector to make sure it fits perfectly with the caps/connectors off the injectors.
                  i will look into it and hopefully ill be able to do it!

                  will keep updated!

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                  • #24
                    The need for glow plugs depends on temperature. In warmer weather the ECU may 'decide ' the engine will start well enough without the need for hot glow plugs and it may only activate them for a couple of seconds, or even not at all. . In colder weather they usually come on for longer and its more important to wait. I thought it might still be a bit cold at your latitude , but if its 24c then the engine should start ok without glow plugs.
                    Breakdown patrols and garages that regularly have to start cars using jump leads normally use very heavy duty copper cables with copper faced clamps giving a large contact area on the battery terminal.
                    The kind sold in accessory shops for emergency use may not be able to start a car on their own, unless the cars own battery still has enough charge left to provide some of the amps required. You could try using two sets, each clamped to the terminal. (clamping the second on top of the first will be less effective as the weak point might be how good a contact the first clamp is making. They are often copper plated steel with just a thin sharp edge making contact.) . Make sure your battery posts and battery leads are clean and making good electrical contact.

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                    • #25
                      My car never had an issue starting even in the coldest time of the year before, i just waited a few secs and it started right up so i think the heater coil is fine, not 100% about it now but there are no fault codes. the previous owner told me he did replace one of them before he sold the car.
                      I just loaned a battery charger from a family member and i'm gonna give it a few good hours (its a trickle charger) to do as much as it can and then i will use the partly charged battery in conjunction with leads from the fully charged one to try and start it again.
                      If that works at least i know i can start the car and i will buy a new battery tomorrow.
                      A few days ago i used starter fluid to try and get it going, wonder if that would help this time or not.

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                      • #26
                        Did your Tuesday Diesel man get to look at it?
                        I was thinking if you can get some air line hose the type used in aquariums, you'd be able to do a leakoff test using the existing connectors,

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                        • #27
                          Talked to him yesterday he should come buy today evening (Norway time - i think its the same as UK)
                          I did get another battery and i am charging it as we speak since it was flat (bought new and wasn't used for months)
                          The car wont start at all now not even "sometimes" , just keeps cranking and there is sometimes a little shudder when u can feel its trying to start but nothing happens.
                          Ill tell him about the leak off test, see what his take on it is - im pretty interested to know if he will conclude the same as we did as in its a problem with an injector and what his solution is.

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                          • #28
                            If he has any diag equipment get the fuel pressure readings on ignition and cranking and note the rpm too. Also, if he scans for any trouble codes they could've been caused by the low battery and unplugging the injectors. The best thing to do is make a note of any trouble codes, clear them, give the car another try and see if any codes comes back. Another thing I thought of trying was unplugging the fuel pressure regulator on the end of the fuel rail and/or the fuel pressure sensor and see if it starts.

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                            • #29
                              So the guy couldn't come today but he did send his friend that lives near by -
                              He listened to the engine trying to start and had the guy on the phone and they concluded its not starting because its air locked, but from what i described they both thought it was the injector that was the issue.
                              What seems to have happen is - When i added the fuel additive it took a lot of gunk and crap and plugged up the fuel filter which didn't allow the engine to start after plugging up (which actually matches what happen to me - it worked in the beginning and then stopped).
                              So what i need to do now according to them is:
                              1. get the diesel that is in the tank out
                              2. take off the fuel filter
                              3. get new diesel and "wash" the tank by rocking the car
                              4. get that diesel out and refill new diesel
                              5. fit a new fuel filter (making sure its full of fuel so its not air locked)
                              6. push start the car
                              and hopefully that works! then i can bring it down to the guy's workshop for him to see what to do to fix the injector.

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                              • #30
                                That sounds like a lot of effort....and money! I'd just go with a fuel filter for now. If the car is starting with starter fluid and running that would rule out an air lock. Try unplugging the regulator and give it a try.

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