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Hi again folks, used the car yesterday all fine, put it in garage. Went to start it today and it just turns over and wont start. Spark at plug and plug dry, so could be fuel related. Relay clicks when ignition turned on. I noticed that the engine light blinks when I put ignition on. Any ideas before I give AA a call. Vauxhall Corsa B 1.2 C12 NZ.1994 88k.
As above - the immobiliser works by shutting off the fuel supply on cranking. You get the priming run which is why you hear the relay click, but once you turn the engine over the relay doesn't operate, hence dry plugs.
Hi guys, thanks for your replies. I called the AA out shortly after posting so didn't get your replies till just now. Spot on again. Chap did all electrical tests and thought at first fuel pump, but when he tested voltage to the pump he wasn't getting a 12 volt supply so he checked the relay. It looked like the immobiliser keycode socket had been changed at some time because the two wires had been soldered as if it had been swapped from another vehicle. When he crossed the two soldered joints together the car started. When he took the keycode out it smelt like it had been burning and had a brown stain on one side. I have a spare and tried that and all was fine. Pity I didn't wait to hear from you as it would have saved me a call out. If I join the two wires together that should bypass the immobiliser should it not? Just in case it happens again and I don't have another keycode key. Thanks again guys.
Is that a factory fitted immobiliser or an aftermarket one? I guess the latter from how you describe it. Not all 1994 cars had immobilisers anyway. If it's an aftermarket jobbie then so long as it's simply inline then you can bypass it. That would make your car easier to steal so consider a hidden switch somewhere, or preferably invest in a crooklock. Better to deter them before they break in and find it won't start.
Hi Taurus, this is the item in question. I don't know if its been added or it is the original kit. There are two wires that go to it and at some time have been cut and soldered back together. The guy from the AA said if I cut the wires again and joined them together it will bypass the immobiliser. I don't why the key had started to burn but if it happens again I wont have another key to use so I might as well do it and get a crooklock.
Regards.....corky
Update..... I have been looking at some Corsa B`s on E-Bay, L reg - T reg and none has this fitted so it must be an aftermarket one I guess.
Hi folks, hope someone can advise me further on this post. As I now have only one immobiliser key left after the other one burnt out I was going to take this immobiliser off just in case the other key burns out. The original wire that was cut is purple/orange if I recall. The two wires that I assume go to the immobiliser are black. So I cut the wires at the soldered joints and joined the original wires back together. The first thing I noticed was the little red light was still flashing. If I had broke the circuit that should go out right? I took the immobiliser key out and tried to start it up. All the lights came up but when I turned the ignition key, nothing. However, when I put the key back in she fired up no problem. I put the burnt key in and it turned over but wouldn't fire up. I had assumed that this device was a type of "kill" switch. How come with the burnt key in and cross the soldered joints together it works, but if I cut the wire and join it together it still needs the key in to start.
Regards corky
Here is a picture of the burnt out key.
Can you get some pictures of the wiring? As this is getting a little confusing to follow. It sounds like the immob is killing power to the starter motor feed. It may be easier if you forget about crossing this wire and that, and just trace it back to where they've spliced it into the starter motor solenoid feed wire. Which would be red/blue if i remeber correctly.
No problem, at the end of the day, manufacturers can make the interface as fancy as they want, but all aftermarket immobilisers will trace back to a single (or sometimes 2) spliced into wire, cut the immob out, put the wire back together, bobs your mothers brother.
Hi all, just took another picture from underneath the area where this immobiliser is fitted. Don`t know if it helps.
The red and black wires go to the red flashing light above the key insert. There must be at least 5 black wires actually coming from the back of it. I have noticed the other key is starting to burn slightly.
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