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  • [Corsa B 1993-2000] Starting issue

    Hi, I rebuilt part of my engine due to a broken timing belt and bent valves.
    Got it running, sounded really good, no miss, plenty of power.
    Gave the engine a good wash down to clean all the oil and grease after the rebuild.
    Now it turns over but won't start.
    Pulled apart all the electrical plugs, cleaned them, sealed them and re-connected.
    I disconnected the battery, checked all earth's and connections and reconnected it.
    On cranking has over 20psi fuel pressure.
    If I spray a little petrol into the inlet manifold, then crank it, it will start and run on that fuel, but stops again.
    Seems like the injectors are not firing.
    Anyone have any idea's?
    Is there some way of getting the fault codes to see what it might be. (I have no idea where the computer is.)
    Is this a common fault?

  • #2
    If fuel is reaching the rail but not getting through the injectors check the injector relay before doing anything else.
    1972 Viva restoration thread - http://www.thecorsa.co.uk/projects-b....html#post1534

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    • #3
      Checked that, bypassed it and still no luck.
      Fuel is there, but the computer is not allowing the injectors to fire, must be some signal not getting through?

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      • #4
        Sorry to ask the obvious (we can't see the car) - have you checked that the plugs are wet with fuel after cranking?

        And also checked for a spark?

        Bit late now - but this is one reason I very rarely wash an engine. It causes problems too many times.
        1972 Viva restoration thread - http://www.thecorsa.co.uk/projects-b....html#post1534

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        • #5
          I'm hearing you, if I ever get it going I'll never wash it again!
          Still won't go.
          Checked the spark plugs, all dry, no fuel on them.
          Cranked the engine over, good spark at the plugs.
          Checked the fuel pressure, 45 psi and steady when cranking. Holds fuel pressure for about 20 minutes after you turn it off. (pump & regulator working)
          Checked the power supply to the injectors, good voltage at cranking. (around 10 volts as cranks)
          Did the paperclip ECU fault test, no codes present.
          Removed the battery, (battery is new) re-cleaned all the electrical plugs under the bonnet with good quality contact cleaner.
          Removed the earths on the engine, cleaned both faces and terminals and refitted.
          Removed ECU, checked all plugs and connections and refitted.
          You can feel the idle stepping motor work when the key is turned on.
          Still no luck.
          The only time I can get a response is if I spray any flammable aerosol into the inlet, then crank it, the engine will start and run, till the little bit of flammable fluid is used.
          This would indicate to me that we have spark, so the crank position sensor works & the coil pack works (no miss).
          Would I be correct in assuming it appears the ECU may be at fault?
          No water got onto the ECU, but could it have shorted anything from the engine bay being cleaned?
          Would appreciate any feedback.

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          • #6
            I'm way out of my comfort zone here but does a voltage at the injectors guarantee there is no problem with the injectors relay? I thought it was more complicated than that with the relay pulsing the voltage to the injectors,controlled by signals from the ecu.It may be supplying constant voltage and not 'switching'. It might be worth checking the relay terminals for damp and corrosion, or even trying a replacement. They are much cheaper than an ecu.
            Last edited by Bugman; 09-04-2016, 01:46 PM.

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            • #7
              From what you say it does sound like the injectors aren't firing. You say you are getting 10v on cranking, a bit low maybe but the key thing to check is if the ground pulse is present. The injectors should get battery voltage with the injection period triggered by a ground pulse. The length of the pulse determines the period of injection. No ground pulse suggests a bad connection or an ecu problem.
              1972 Viva restoration thread - http://www.thecorsa.co.uk/projects-b....html#post1534

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              • #8
                Thanks for the replies,
                The multi-meter fluctuates a bit on cranking, but it is between 10 & 11 Volts. Thought this would be ample.
                Yep it is earth switched for the injectors to fire. hooked the multi-meter on the earth and got wild fluctuations, but this may not mean much unless I can use something to accurately measure the pulse length etc.
                And I am not sure what I should be getting anyway.
                The long and short is the injectors should emit a ticking sound when they are working, but I still have nothing.
                I have only found out today that I can get an ECU from a running Corsair, same year and same engine.
                Will give it a go, the only worry-some area is if the fault is still with the car, and damages the replacement ecu, need to take the risk and see what happens.
                Will keep you posted.

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                • #9
                  Don't forget that you'll need corresponding transponder and key chip(s) for the replacement ECU. I'm just about to go offline for a week so hope you get this sorted.
                  1972 Viva restoration thread - http://www.thecorsa.co.uk/projects-b....html#post1534

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                  • #10
                    A Corsair with an ECU? Ford were more advanced in the 1960's than I realised It genuinely sounds like you know more than me,and Taurus certainly does.
                    If the other car is still running, accessible with an amenable owner you could try a bit of substitution. Does it still run with your injector relay fitted, does yours run with its one? You could even try running the other car using your ECU before risking the replacement in your car.
                    Unless its just history and its already on a shelf.
                    Last edited by Bugman; 10-04-2016, 01:27 PM.

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                    • #11
                      Thanks for the help, why will I need the transponder and key chip?
                      Not a bad idea running the other car first, the problem is I am getting it cheap because the engine has failed (lost compression, I think it was cooked)
                      But with or without the fuel relay, I still can't get this to run.

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                      • #12
                        Ecu transponder and key chip have to match, along with the speedometer it's a Corsa c

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                        • #13
                          Thanks, where is the transponder, in the ECU?
                          The rest I can change over no problem.
                          And mine is a Corsa B, is that the same?

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                          • #14
                            Yours is a b.


                            You need


                            Key chip
                            Transponder
                            Ecu

                            To match, or it won't work.

                            The transponder is around the ignition barrel. You'll need to remove steering cowling to access ir

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                            • #15
                              Got the car this weekend, will transfer it all over and see what happens.
                              Thanks for the help.

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