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  • [Corsa B 1993-2000] 1.4 sport

    So i have an issue that doesn't stop the car from running but may create other problems if left unsorted, the headlight beam adjuster on the inside of the car does something weird when i have the car off or on if i put the adjuster to 0 it turns my headlights on and you can hear an electrical like pulse through the speakers, i was thinking bad earth somewhere but not a clue about where to start with this, help would be much appreciated.

  • #2
    Welcome to the Forum.

    I've only just spotted that your post hasn't been answered.

    I take it that when you say turning the headlight levelling control to zero, actually turns on the headlights, you mean that when the headlight switch is 'ON' and the levelling control is in any other position, the headlights do not work.

    It would seem to indicate that there is a poor connection (either live or earth) in the headlight units - The effect of turning the control to zero gives the poor connection a 'wiggle', coursing the lights to come on.

    Suggest that you check/clean ALL of the connections in the area of the headlights.

    Regards

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    • #3
      im not entirely sure at this point as to what is going on and no this is when the headlight switch is set to off so it doesn't matter if the engine/ignition is on or off but its actually gradual so the headlight beam adjuster has 4 settings and when on the bottom setting its fine but as you go up a setting i get low side lights then the next is normal side lights and the final setting gives me full headlights not high beam though,

      the car will do this with or without the beam adjuster plugged in and i have checked all the plugs going to the headlights and they are fine :/

      also when the headlights are on the level control does nothing and doesn't turn them off or adjust the beam but i don't care about being able to adjust it as i can do so manually haha

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      • #4
        The head light levelling control should have no effect on the lights intensity and certainly not on the side lights.

        As I said before, it sounds to me as if there is a poor electrical connection - Poor/dirty connections introduce a measure of resistance into the circuit, and whilst the voltage will probably remain the same, with resistance in the circuit, there isn't enough current flowing to make the lights work, or at least, not to work at full intensity.

        Regards

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        • #5
          I think honestly im going to have to put it in for a diagnosis at a garage which I don't wanna do

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          • #6
            Does sound like some kind of short circuit , with the radio picking up the interference. caused by any sparking. Possibly the electrical supply to the beam adjuster switch is short circuiting to the main light switch and supplying power to the lights. It may be the wiring , but as the resistance, and therefore the intensity and number of lights its able to supply with power, varies by switch position it may be the switch itself.

            I'd take the switch unit out and check for any signs of short circuiting in the wires and terminal blocks Bare wires ,signs of burning etc ,and jogglethe blocks ,separate the wires etc to see if the problem stops, or it provokes a short circuit audible on the radio. This might blow a fuse but at least you will be on the right track. . Or better still do some tests with a multi meter (You can buy one for about £8 , a very useful piece of kit with many future uses in the car and home)

            . If you cant find anything obviously wrong you could try fitting a replacement switch unit. Either new or used. This may work out cheaper than a garage.

            If it doesnt solve the problem and you need to go to the garage, having a second switch available may help the electrician with his diagnosis . (or stop him from sorting a simple wiring fault but charging you for a new switch that wasnt needed ) And if your spare switch is given the all clear you may be able to get some of your money back by selling it again.

            edit. I've thought a bit more. I dont know how the beam adjuster switch operates, but from your symptoms it might be a sort of rheostat. Ie altering the resistance of its incoming current in increments before supplying it to the headlight adjuster units. If so the chances are the any shorting is from its adjusted output wire, not its input wire.

            But i'm a bit confused by what you mean by " it still happens with or without the beam adjuster plugged in" . Do you mean it still happens even if both wires are disconnected from the adjuster switch? (if so my rheostat adjusted theory is in some doubt )

            Having non working beam adjusters might cause problems at the mot if the beams are not set equally or if the tester is unable to alter a high or low aim using the switch it may fail.
            Last edited by Bugman; 30-01-2020, 08:15 AM.

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