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Bank 1 Sensor 1 O2 sensor P0130

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  • [Corsa D 2006-2014] Bank 1 Sensor 1 O2 sensor P0130

    Hi all,

    Thanks in advance for any help anyone can offer.

    My car is a 2007 Corsa Sxi 1.2 petrol - engine Z12 XEP. On the whole, I've had few issues with it. Owned since new and serviced annually - around 85000MTE-Thomson - part number 787940058. This was fitted in the pre-cat position, bank 1 sensor 1.

    Although the car was driving fine so far as I could tell, I wanted to get to the bottom of the check engine light. I should point out at this stage that my knowledge and experience around cars extends to changing the oil. Keen to learn and investigate myself however, I've resolved to get rid of this check engine light myself and fix whatever is causing it (if possible).

    These are the steps I've gone through so far -

    I purchased a OBDII reader and used the Torque App. It showed error codes of -

    P0030 - Powertrain - HO2S Heater Control Circuit (Bank1 Sensor 1)
    P0135 - Powertrain - O2 Sensor Heater Circuit (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
    P0131 - Powertrain - O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
    P0031 - Powertrain - HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 1 Sensor 1)

    The sensor put in by the garage seems fine in itself when tested with a multimeter. I noticed however that the wiring configuration was as shown in Photo 1 below. Having read on a forum that an incorrect Sensor was supplied by Euro Car Parts despite it being shown as compatible with a Corsa D, I suspected this may have been the issue I had and that the heater circuit on the sensor wasn't connected to the right pins and therefore wasn't getting any power. Using Torque, it appeaed that no volttage was coming from the sensor even when driven for a good 7 miles - I would have expected the Sensor to have started working by the then even if the heater wasn't getting any power which suggested the signal from the sensor wasn't getting to the ECU.

    I decided to buy a cheap sensor just to see if this was the case - I know cheap sensors aren't reccomended but I just wanted to see if my theory re. the wiring was correct. The sensor I bought had the wires configured like Photo 2 below.

    I fitted the new sensor and voila! It worked! I cleared all the fault codes and no new ones appeared! I was delighted with myself...

    ...until I took it on a drive.

    With no obvious change in the feel of the vehicle when driving (it still felt okay as it did with the sensor fitted by the garage) a new code appeared:

    P0130 - I don't have the exact wording to hand, but I understand that this is something to do with unexpected transition period calculated from sensor.


    I deduced from this that the issues with the heater circuit WERE sorted and that the garage HAD fitted an incorrect sensor, since power now seemed to be getting to the heater on the new sensor...

    ...but an issue was still present.

    No other codes have come back - only P0130 remains despite having rescanned a number of times.

    One thing I have learned from various forums, videos etc is that what I'm experiencing isn't necessarily indicative of a faulty sensor but may be symptomatic of many other things.

    One thing I did notice is that when diconnecting the B1S1 O2 sensor is that oil was present in the connector. I've since found out that this is a common issue when there is a leaking oil pressure switch and can often cause fault codes to come up. Accordingly, I've replaced the oil pressure switch (which was indeed leaking) and cleaned out all the connectors I could find which had oil in them several times. I'm no longer finding any oil in these connectors, but that's not to say there isn't still some in the loom somewhere.

    I've ordered some MAF sensor cleaner which I'll be receiving in the next few days to see if this makes a difference.

    Having checked the voltage from the B1S1 O2 sensor using torque, it seemed to read a more or less constant voltage of 0.45v - from what I understand, it should be fluctuating between 0.1 and 0.9v every second or so. So, this suggests to me that the heater circuit in the new sensor WAS working and that signal WAS getting to the ECU albeit one which gave a voltage reading which was outside what would be expected if working normally.


    Something else occured to me. The sensor I had bought didn't seem to say on the specs that it was specifically for pre-cat, so I wondered if I had bought a post-cat sensor.. There seemed to be some debate on forums as to whether or not pre and post cat sensors are interchangeable so I went ahead and bought another cheap sensor to see if that made a difference. This one was specifically mentioned as being for the pre-cat position on my Corsa.

    So, tried it this morning and P0130 came back and the voltage reading was exactly as before; ie. around 0.45v constantly.

    So...I'm at al loss!

    Other than cleaning of the MAF sensor and perhaps further cleaning of the loom I don't know what to try next.

    I guess my questions to you guys are as follows:Thanks once again for reading my tale of woe and giving any help you may be able to give...


  • #2
    Thanks for the detailed explanation.

    The clue might be in the leaking oil pressure switch, as it has been known for leaking oil to travel through the harness and eventually reaching the ECU, causing more strange problems - it could well be worth checking before you go much further.

    P0130 may be thrown up by a range of problems - all combustion related - It is worth checking for a blowing exhaust system or vacuum leaks on the inlet manifold.

    By the way 8,500 miles is far too great mileage for oil/ filter changes on these engines - They are great engines BUT don't take kindly to extended oil change periods. I would be looking at less than half of that mileage.
    Also, make sure that you use good quality oil filter elements, the cheaper ones have broken up and caused oil starvation.



    • #3
      Thats for taking the time to read and responding; apologies - my post was a little unclear on that point re. oil change. The oil is changed every six months. 85000 miles is the current mileage of the car.

      A new exhaust was fitted in December 2017 - I know that doesn't rule out a leak somewhere in its structure but I haven't got any obvious aural signs of blowing etc...

      I guess I'll persevere with the cleaning of the loom and see what happens.

      Thank you!


      • #4
        Just incase anyone is in a position to advise...

        So I decided not to rely on Torque and do a little probing with a multimeter...

        The first thing I wanted to do it make sure that the wires on the connector of the B1S1 lambda were heading in the right places...

        So with the sensor connected and fitted, I went poking with some T pins and attached my multimeter with some crocodile clips;

        There was continuity between the two white wires suggesting the 12v supply to the heater and the heater ground were good - would I be correct in assuming this?

        I then wanted to be sure that the signal and signal ground were connected correctly; with the red multimeter probe connected to the black wire and the black probe connected to the grey;

        There was a positive voltage reading on the multimeter when I started the engine suggesting that the wires were connected as they should be - am I right in assuming this?

        So...with the engine running, I observed the following -

        Over the course of 20 mins or so, the voltage reading from the O2 sensor climbed gradually from 0.01v to 0.89v which as I understand it is the normal range of the sensor's generated voltage. Once it reached 0.89v, it slowly started decreasing again - I got as far as 0.86v and then I decided I was going to annoy the neighbours if I carried on much longer. It appeared to be decreasing as slowly as it had originally increased before reaching that 0.89v threshold.

        When revving the engine, I noticed that as I depressed the accelerator, the voltage reading didn't change so far as I could see, but as soon as I stopped revving, the voltage rapidly dropped to anywhere between 0.2ish V to 0.5ish V before rapidly rising back up to where it had been before I started revving.

        So...any ideas what this tells me? Ha.

        I guess what I can see is that there's activity from the sensor and that it seems to respond quickly to the throttle being opened and closed...which I guess it normal?

        But then...from what I understand, it should be constantly climbing from 0.1v to 0.9v in a regular repeated pattern...

        Have I got the wrong kind of sensor still? ie - is this a post-cat sensor?

        Is it a crap quality sensor?

        Or something else altogether...

        Again, thanks for any help you might be able to give!


        • #5
          What you describe looks pretty normal.
          As the mixture becomes richer, the voltage should rise and as id becomes weaker, it will fall.

          It still might be worth buying a can of 'carb cleaner', spraying it around the inlet manifold and seeing if there is any change in engine speed - If there is a change in speed, it probably indicates a manifold air leak, which can be a cause of a P 0130 fault code.