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2012 Corsa D 1.0 ecoflex - Battery drain

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  • [Corsa D] 2012 Corsa D 1.0 ecoflex - Battery drain

    Hi all,

    I'm looking into a battery drain (for a neighbour) on 2012 Corsa D 1.0 ecoflex - A10XEP engine.
    My initial findings were a draw of 110mA after half an hour of shutdown, however, after a little research found the parasitic draw test procedure from vauxhall for a Corsa C which states leaving the car for at least 2 hours before testing. So I'll be testing everything using the 2 hour rule thoroughly over the weekend. I was just wondering if there are any known problems regarding battery drain in the corsa community.
    I will report back with my findings but in the meantime would appreciate any comments, info, tips.

    Thanks

    Tommy.

  • #2
    You need to put figures as you quote into some sort of context and also take into account how 'flat' the battery goes, and over how long a period.

    If you have 1/10 Amp loss for ten ours, you have lost 1 Amp/hour, which, when starting the engine, you probably wouldn't even notice.
    The other factor of course, is the battery itself - probably 36 or 44A/H capacity.

    If your neighbour is experiencing low battery voltage after the car has been standing (say) overnight, it is worth disconnecting the battery, leaving the car to stand for an equivalent amount of time, reconnect the battery and see if there is still low voltage when starting - if there IS, then the battery itself is suspect.

    A good battery, which has been fully charged and allowed to stand (connected or disconnected) overnight should hold up at least 9.5 Volts across the terminals whilst the starter is in operation.
    NOTE: If you tried this test with the battery straight off charge (without allowing it to stand) you would probably get a false result, as even a weak battery straight off charge would probably stand up to the test - Allowing it to stand is the key to accurate results.

    Regards

    Comment


    • #3
      Thanks for the reply, the car had a new battery fitted 40Ah around 3 weeks ago and now back to the dead condition 8.8v when i checked it. It was a bit of a rush job on my part just to try a find something obvious but ran out of time and light. Charged it up and she's been disconnecting the battery at work and at night just to get her through to the weekend when I can test things properly.

      Regards

      Comment


      • #4
        It might be worth checking the alternator is charging properly. With the engine running the minimum charging voltage across the car battery terminals is 13.8 volts, but ideally it should be a bit over 14v

        Pulling fuses one at a time until you find the source(s) is a bit of a pain. The mini ones are fiddly little blighters,even if you have a fuse puller tool . (My yaris includes one in the fuse box,but not noticed one on the corsa)

        Good luck and let us know how you get on.

        Comment


        • #5
          Update:

          It's all gone wrong....
          As well as trying to find the battery draw I'd planned to give the car a service (air, oil, coolant and sparks} as it hadn't been serviced in the owners possession (2 years) and had no service history with it, no surprise it sounded like a bag of spanners.
          I picked the car up Friday evening and began, when I finally got the oil filler cap off I was met by caramel cream cheese. Don't think it's ever had a service.
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          Come Saturday morning I installed the battery which had been on charge overnight and tried to start the car, and tried, and tried, and tried. It was just turning over and over.
          No immobiliser lights, no dtc's, fuel pump priming, tested fuel pressure - tad over 3 bar, had oil pressure, whipped sparks out and tested compression 14-15 bar across the three cylinders, removed the coil pack, connected sparks and tested - all firing. Removed the fuel rail with injectors and tested - all firing. Rpm registering 220 on cranking - cranksensor working but still no start.
          I have a version of op com but it won't connect on this car (it does on older vauxhalls) I was hoping to scan the bcm/immobiliser for any codes. My launch c reader says no engine, abs or airbag dtc's but dosen't read immo or bcm. It is reading live data from the engine, air flow, rpm, throttle valve angle etc, so don't think it's the engine ecu at fault.
          Soooo, I'm just waiting on a local Vauxhall specialist to give it a scan then I'll post back.
          In the meantime, if anybody has any ideas/suggestions i'd be glad to hear them.

          Comment


          • #6
            Is there any chance at all that you connected the battery the wrong way round (pos where neg should be and neg where pos should be) EVEN FOR A SPLIT SECOND????
            If you did, that is almost certainly the cause of the problem - If you didn't, then I am at a loss to make a suggestion.

            What I would say, looking at that oil filler, is that it would be best to remove the valve cover and clean out as much of that gunge as is possible. OLD linen is probably the best thing to use (old tea towel say) - DO NOT use 'lint-laden' cloth, or you could end up blocking oil ways with fibres - the same goes for paper towels, but if you do use these, make sure that no part of the towels are 'lost', or they too could block oilways.

            Whatever else you might do, DO NOT be tempted to use flushing oil, as this WILL block oilways with the gunge that it cleans off of the inside of the engine.
            If there hasn't been any unexplained coolant loss, all of that gunge (which consists of emulsified oil) is probably caused by condensation, which in turn is probably a product of short journeys in which the poor little engine doesn't have time to dry itself out.

            Once you have the engine running, give it a good run to get the oil hot (rather than just the coolant), drain off the oil rather than use a pump, as draining it will get more oil out.
            When you buy the new filter element, I would suggest that you buy a genuine Vauxhall one, as some of the aftermarket ones have been known to break up in service.
            I would NOT use expensive oil at this stage, as I would suggest changing it again in a week or so (also the filter element)
            Depending on what the oil looks like then, it might be necessary to change it (and the filter) again in a few weeks time - at which time, you can change to a better quality oil.

            Don't forget to buy a new 'O' ring for the sump plug before you remove it.

            Do please let us know the eventual outcome.

            Regards

            Comment


            • #7
              Thanks walksall.
              The battery couldn't go in wrong way around due to terminals and cable length/location. I agree with not using flush I've always preferred a shorter interval oil service to clean things out and I've monitored the results of this method on another car that had been neglected, it's a much more gentle way of getting rid of gunge and baked on crust and it does clean it up. Didn't say in the last post but I completed the service on the Friday night. I was just waiting for the battery to charge which I left till the saturday morning.

              I spoke to the independent vauxhall specialist this morning and he said I'd be wasting my money on a scan as if it were a bcm/ecu/immo problem it wouldn't turn over or have spark and fuel. Credit to him for his honesty (not often you get that), I'll get all his details and add them to this thread.
              So it looks like I'm going to have to check the timing, ordered a timing tool kit which will hopefully be here Friday. I'll do a cylinder leak down test tomorrow to confirm, I'll also whip the valve cover off to eyeball the timing (and clean any gunge out), I should have a flat bar somewhere which i could also use to check the cam alignment.
              I'll keep you posted and thanks again.

              Tommy

              Comment


              • #8
                You MAY be on to something with the timing, but it seems to be something of a coincidence as the car was running before you removed the battery for charging, and now it won't start.
                I am struggling to suggest anything else though, as even if the battery had been totally flat and you had charged it the wrong way round, (it is possible) I doubt that you would get a spark out of it, let alone be able to read ANY live data.
                At least you seem to have come across an honest chap who is a Vauxhall specialist, so if all else fails, hopefully he could sort it for you - but you will feel much better about it if you can sort it yourself.

                Regards

                Comment


                • #9
                  I'd just opened the bonnet this morning and the postman turns up with the timing tool set, happy days.
                  So I checked the timing and.......

                  Well out.

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                  I reset the timing, give it a turn from the crank and it jumps again. Tries again, reset, turn, jump.
                  When turning I could actually see the chain becoming slack on the exhaust cam sprocket then it would jump and when i watched the tensioner while turning it was petty much fully compressing. No pressure at all. Just what I didn't want.

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                  Had a quick look at the vauxhall procedure for changing it and I've only just stopped crying!!!
                  So much for a quick service and finding a battery drain.

                  I was thinking the same as you, the car was running before the charge and the service....It couldn't be the timing.

                  I'll keep you updated. Going to do some more crying now.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I was going to suggest a stretched/mangled chain last night but wasnt sure if it could get bad enough to affect timing. Thanks for keeping us updated. I now know it can get that bad.

                    I didnt want to alarm you unnecessarily by speculating (which i tend to do do quite a lot) especially as you had a timing kit coming and obviously know enough about cars to discover the truth .

                    Its best to use an oem quality chain kit. Some after market ones are known to stretch, and get noisy very quickly. Possibly quick enough that your neighbour will be unhappy.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      On the bright side, it looks as if all of that gunge was confined to the cover and oil filler cap.

                      The bad news is that you probably now have some bent valve stems.

                      All things have to happen at some time, but it still seems incredulous to me that the engine ran before you charged the battery and then the timing 'jumped'. Could the engine have been turned 'backwards' at some point?

                      The moral of this sad story is that if you even SUSPECT that the timing is 'out', turn the engine over by hand only, and even then, be VERY gentle with it.

                      I sincerely hope that you get this job sorted, it's made all the worse by not being your own car.

                      Regards

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I was back on the case yesterday and the chain jumping was definitely down to the tensioner, I used an L shaped allen key poked the through the tensioner access hole to hold/tension the guide rail as I turned the crank by hand and the chain never jumped. Had a little look into the tensioner design and it's a hydraulic system, same principle as a hydraulic lifter I gather, spring loaded piston which fills with oil and a one way check valve.
                        So I thought maybe if I could pressurize the oil system and get some oil in the tensioner we could be back in business.
                        I removed the oil pressure sensor and tried to fill/pressure the system from there but no joy. Refitted the oil pressure sensor.
                        Put the allen key in and tried turning and turning and turning the crank by hand but no joy.
                        (Don't try this at home kids) I had someone crank the engine by the ignition key while I held the allen key on the guide rail, the sparks and valve cover were removed as well as injectors electrical connectors unplugged. Gave it a few short cranks on the key about 3 seconds each time. On the third go we struck oil, a stream of oil jetted out of the top chain guide all over the inside of the bonnet and me, so fitted the valve cover and tried again, all good, getting brave now..... threw the sparks in and connected everything back up, while holding the allen key in place we turned the ignition key and she fired up, still good so gave a few short revs but then oil started pi$$ing out all over the allen key and my hand. Turned it off had a little clean up and tried again without the aid of the allen key and she fired up lovely. Had to call it a day at this point because the wind was getting ridiculous.
                        Tried it again this morning and she fired up, it did have a little chain rattle on start up (as it did beforehand). I will change the chain and tensioner soon, just got a few bits i need to catch up on first. Out of curiosity I got a price for the chain job from a local halfords auto centre....600 supply and fit.

                        It's gone just a wee tad off topic this thread but I'll try and get back to the original problem of the battery drain this weekend at some point.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          If you do intend farming out the chain fitting, I would recommend that you have another quote - I wouldn't like to put into print the reason why, but I would certainly recommend that you do.

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by walksall View Post
                            I wouldn't like to put into print the reason why.
                            Oh go on tell us

                            I'll be doing the job myself, it was purely out of curiosity I wanted to know how much it would cost at a garage.
                            I always like to have the proper tech procedures when doing jobs like that, which parts and the order to remove them in, gaskets that need replacing, bolts renewed, bolt torque settings etc. Which I know most garages won't follow or don't have access to or generally don't care.
                            I once put a 2004 micra in for a chain job because tech said you have to remove the engine to remove/install the timing case properly (which I mentioned to the garage) I got a great price for a day job which carried a guarantee on parts and labour.
                            Gave them the car and a week later the job was finished. They broke the timing case and tried to bill me for it because it was" weak and already had a fracture in it" I asked if they removed the engine, to which the answer was no. When I picked the car up they actually moaned to me that they had to remove the engine to get the timing cover back on properly!!!

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              There are some very good garages around - the problem is (as you have already found) it can be expensive finding the bad ones and sifting out the good ones.
                              Some of these outfits seem to think that if they put a pair of overalls on a person, something magic happens and they turn into a mechanic!
                              As you say, by doing the job yourself, you can control the quality of parts that you fit and by taking your time, will certainly do a better job than some of the 'professionals'

                              Regards

                              Comment

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