[Corsa C 2000-2006] Temp non starter

[GRAHAM.C]

Hi guys,my car is a cross c 1200 facelift model 2004.Went this morning to start the car (cold,very wet,and screen iced. up.Put the key in the ignition and turned it to the first stage which brings on all the panel lights,all the lights came on but the EML started to flash on and off with what I would call in time with a clicking noise.I turned the key off and back on a few times but the same happened.After trying it for the 4th time it came on and stayed lite like it should do and was able to start the engine.
I have put a code reader on,but no faults are stored.I have started the car several times since but starts now with no trouble,if I had to guess I would say it might be an Imobiliser fault,but thought it might be worth a mention in case someone has had the same problem.

[Taurus]

First thing to do is to make sure the battery is fully charged, they can do that if the battery level is low. Remember that an alternator doesn't recharge a flat battery, it only replaces the starting charge, so if your battery is getting low a long drive will not fully charge it.

I'd give it an overnight trickle charge, make sure all the connections are clean and tight, and see how it goes.

[GRAHAM.C]

Thanks Taurus,I think you could be on the right track.This has a new battery as the cold weather killed the old one about a month ago.
I think doing mostly short shopping trips in this cold weather with lights,heaters,and rear screen heater on has not done the new battery any favours.I did a multi meter test on the battery today and the readings are not good.It was 12.32 with nothing turned on,and 14.40 with engine idling.You say a good long run out will not get it up to 12.6 where it should be,so it seems that I might have to invest in a new trickle charger,as my old one gave up a while back,and get the pain in the but out of the car and on the bench to charge it,as I am a long way from a power point where I park the car.

[Taurus]

The voltage isn't the whole story. Even a discharged battery will show 12+v. The reading of 12.32 says you've got six healthy cells, which you'd expect with a new battery, but they may not have a lot of charge in them. I'd get one of the new intelligent chargers, well worth the investment.

[Swiftrod]

[Connor]

Write I've done this a few times at work, the Imbolliser is park of the speedo/clocks cluster and where the plag is park of the dash the sperate a bit so I Normaly pull the plug forward and pack round the back and sides with double sided sticky tape just to pack it out a bit to make the connection a bit better.

worth a try/look

connor

[Swiftrod]

Thanks Connor will give it a try! ;-)

[Swiftrod]

Intermittent starting fault Corsa C 1.2 - YouTube

Hi, I have posted this link so you guys can see exactly what is happening!

[Taurus]

There is a difference between the EML flashing and flickering, yours is doing the latter. There are a number of possibilities, not all of them straightforward in terms of diagnostics, just things that happen even if the symptoms aren't typical.

First thing to do if the car has been standing is to make sure the battery is fully charged and is holding charge. They can deteriorate if left standing and alternator systems won't recharge a low battery, even after a long run.

Second thing is to check all connections - easy to say, not so easy to do. You just need to be methodical. Make sure the main battery clamps are clean and the earth points. Check also the ECU, some of the C models suffered damp getting into them and that causes all sort of intermittent issues. Make sure the ECU earth is good.

Third thing is to check the main connector block behind the instrument cluster. They had a habit of working loose and poor connections can lead to none starting. Sometimes a firm press on the cluster will fix it temporarily. Vauxhall used a sealant to stick the connection together - it was a common field remedy at the time.

Also consider the crankshaft sensor, your symptoms aren't typical for failure but they do fail regularly and if they go you won't get fuel pressure at the rail after cranking.

[Swiftrod]

Thanks for the reply and the advice, I think I will start with the battery first by giving it a good charge and see if that makes any difference and if not then I shall work my way through the rest! Is the ECU earth connected to the cylinder head as I had a quick look and could not see it?

[Swiftrod]

Ok guys, finally found some time to have a go at your suggestions, started with battery charge and cleaned all terminals with wire wool and re-greased. Problem still persisted, so I then disconnected the little earth that comes out of the loom that plugs into the ECU and gave it a good clean and put back but problem still there. When you try to do the pedal test, the EML light does the flickering thing and you can here the throttle body clicking in time with the EML lights flashing also sounds like the relay is making clicking in time with throttle body as well! So I convinced myself with my sparse knowledge of vehicle electrics that it is an earthing issue with ECU. So I wire wooled a clean spot on the body of ECU and got someone to do the pedal test while I earthed it to the negative terminal on the battery and guess what clicking and flickering stopped! So it looks like there is an issue with the earth but I have not yet tried to find which one. I would be grateful if you could advise me where any other earths for the ECU are as I would rather find the main earth at fault rather than just patch a new earth in myself. Hope you can help!