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Iron Fallout & Heavy Paint Contamination (PICS INSIDE)

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  • Iron Fallout & Heavy Paint Contamination (PICS INSIDE)

    Just thought some of you might like to see what I got up to today. After a rather catastrophic caliper failure, the pads disintegrated, and fora f ew days I was driving around with a large amount of metal-metal contact with the pad backing plates beign forced into the discs. The car was filthy from normal road dirt, so the onyl negative effect of this (apart from having to replace the brakes of course) was that it shat all over my drivers offside alloy. Extremely heavy iron fallout and paint contamination.

    It wasn't until yesterday when I washed the car that I foudn out the problme was actually a little more widespread. The entire offside of the car was plasteres in iron contaminiation, buried into the paint, it wouldn't wash off, and it looked as if I hadn't even washed, but it was clean. The paint felt like sand paper, and had lost nearly all of its shine. Today, after searching for a while, I found my Clay, was out in the shed, I revived it by kneeding it in my hands for half hour or so, and then set to work. Here's some pics:

    Drivers door, an example of what the entire surface of that side of the car looked like. Remeber the car is clean, it was washed yesterday, and hasn't driven anywhere, this is iron dust embedded into the paint.
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    The rear vent on that side, clearly a catch point for the contaminiation particles. This was very heavy and took a while to clay off.
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    The leading edge of the reat vents
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    My clay of choice, good stuff this:
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    This was the clay after just one pass of the bottom of the drivers side wing, about 6" square of bodywork
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    Clay after a single pass over the bottom section of the drivers door (probably the roughest feeling area, minus the vents of course)
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    Started on the rear vents area. Pic a bit **** as its black on white..
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    Skip forward about an hour or so, and a lot of claying and folding the clay in on itself over and over etc, plus about half a bottle of quick detailer (used as a lubricant) and here are some after shots.

    Rear vents, the white dots are stone chips, theres a few of those around the car..
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    The rest of the rear quarter
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    Drivers door
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    Bottom fo door, where it was quite bad, same area as the first pic of this post
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    Drivers offside wheel, yes its awful now. I've orderd some professional iron fallour remover and another wheel cleaner, both of which should be friendly against paint, but literally metl through iron deposits. While I still wait for that to arrive, I thought I may aswell try claying it and see what comes off. I honestly wasn't expecting much, its properly heavy contaminaton, and really baked on...
    Click image for larger version

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    After a quick clay, you can see its removed the lighter areas around the edge, but the main bulk is still there and barely touched it, the clay is onyl a medium strength clay, you can get coarse ones, so maybe that would have helped more, either way I'll hold off until my iron dissolver sprays get here in a few days.
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    Dave
    |> Spec2 R33 Skyline GTS-T <|

  • #2
    Don't need to use expensive detailer as lube with Bilt Hamber. Just warm water with a drop of car shampoo is sufficient and works well. I take it you've polished and waxed after claying? Or is that for another day?
    Big clear out of parts
    Corsa D Yellow LE
    Corsa B Atlantis Blue
    Mazda Eunos V-Spec

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    • #3
      Another day, fookin freezing out there today... It needs a polish as it's clearly taken the edge off the shine with it being such a harsh claying affair.

      I prefer using detailer tbh, seems more correct to me, but yeh I know people use water with this stuff.
      |> Spec2 R33 Skyline GTS-T <|

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      • #4
        I was considering getting some of that clay, my Megs stuff is just about done and I like the idea of water as lube. Seems to have done a pretty decent job.

        You looked at Waxybox? I've ordered another box (delivery end of Jan) of samples, going to give the different stuff (as well as the box I have) a go when the new car arrives as I want it kept spotless.


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        • #5
          I looked at waxybox before and didn't really understand its usefulness tbh... And yeh the clay is good, its the one I had and used on the corsa when it was in its prime, always did a stirling job on that. I think I'll properly get back into detailing more when I get my new car. I've majorly let the side down somewhat with getting this MR2. Also, yes, its done a fantastic job in this example, but its clear that it now needs a polish at the very least.
          |> Spec2 R33 Skyline GTS-T <|

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          • #6
            You should always at least wax after claying as it completely strips it back to bare paint with no protection. That's not unique to Bilt Hamber.
            Big clear out of parts
            Corsa D Yellow LE
            Corsa B Atlantis Blue
            Mazda Eunos V-Spec

            Comment


            • #7
              Yes nibnob, I know this. I'm not an idiot.
              |> Spec2 R33 Skyline GTS-T <|

              Comment


              • #8
                Fooled me

                Just the way you wrote your last post it didn't come across particularly clearly.
                Big clear out of parts
                Corsa D Yellow LE
                Corsa B Atlantis Blue
                Mazda Eunos V-Spec

                Comment


                • #9
                  Ok nibnob. Thankyou for your concern.
                  |> Spec2 R33 Skyline GTS-T <|

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                  • #10
                    Really done a nice job there. Mine needs the works but getting off overspray white speckles is GRAFT with clay. Took me couple hours just getting them off bonnet.
                    Vauxhall Vectra 1.9 CDTi SRi - New Car
                    Black 1.2 Corsa SXI Project - Sold
                    Aruba Blue 1.0 Corsa Project - Sold

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                    • #11
                      Stunning work Dave.

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                      • #12
                        I had a similar problem last year, had metal on metal for a while and plenty of iron deposits like you. I used a traffic film remover, sprayed over the affected parts and left to soak. I then cleaned the car normally and came off without any hassle. Thought the info could be of use to you, don't know if something like that could be used as a lube for the clay.
                        Originally posted by Vegas
                        When I hit boost me fuel runs out

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