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Thread: Car was running - now cut out :(

  1. #1
    'VXR' Member Vegas's Avatar
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    Car was running - now cut out :(

    Great

    Car was running lovely, revs were a little up and down so I have all the leads a push.
    I pushed the king lead, and engine suddenly cut out. Now it won't start again?


    Ideas please, limited time

  2. #2
    'VXR' Member Taurus's Avatar
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    This car needs a witch doctor - it must be haunted.

    Where did you push the king lead - at the coil or at the dizzy? It sounds like either the lead itself has busted inside, or where you pushed it has caused a weak point to give way. You ought to be able to firmly push the connectors without anything giving way. Check either the dizzy cap or the coil depending where it was you pushed it when it stopped. (If it's at the coil you can test for continuity using a multimeter.
    1972 Viva restoration thread - [url]https://www.thecorsa.co.uk/projects-builds/138-1972-vauxhall-viva.html#post1534[/url]

  3. #3
    'VXR' Member Vegas's Avatar
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    I pushed it at the coil Taurus. Might be worth mentioning here are the plugs

    Plugs are black, so I've ordered another set.
    Car was overfueling for quite a while before we sorted MAF


  4. #4
    'VXR' Member Vegas's Avatar
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    Just fired up using my spare coil
    Also works on original coil too now. Might be as cleaned plugs?
    Last edited by Vegas; 16-08-2013 at 01:46 PM.

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    'VXR' Member Taurus's Avatar
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    Or a dodgy connection at the coil - I seem to remember the original problem had signs of weak sparks, or I might be getting confused with something else.
    1972 Viva restoration thread - [url]https://www.thecorsa.co.uk/projects-builds/138-1972-vauxhall-viva.html#post1534[/url]

  6. #6
    'VXR' Member Vegas's Avatar
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    Could be.
    What would you suggest next action is
    I bought and just fitted new plugs, it's hunts when cold between 400 and 800 rpm. When warm it hunts around 1100 and 800.

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    Diesel lover Hardcore's Avatar
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    If the fuel pressure is set too high could it be forcing too much fuel into the cylinders and flooding it?
    Air leak somewhere else?

  8. #8
    'VXR' Member Vegas's Avatar
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    Checked everywhere I can think of for an air leak. It may be my imagination but I think it fluctuated slightly when I push down on the TPS wiring/sensor.
    Fuel pressure should be fine, as you can see wideband gauge, this shows the fuel/air mix
    This is a video when warm (you can see the temp, it's spot on)
    Also tried ANOTHER CTS, genuine Bosch this time.

    http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o...ps6a9925b0.mp4

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    Rob
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    by that vid its running lean. add a bit more fuel.

  10. #10
    'VXR' Member Vegas's Avatar
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    That video is bang in the middle of the gauge though

  11. #11
    Rob
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    its not about the middle its about the number. when revved it heads up to 17:1, very lean.

    stolen from google but exatly what i wanted to say:
    When discussing engine tuning the 'Air/Fuel Ratio' (AFR) is one of the main topics. Proper AFR calibration is critical to performance and durability of the engine and it's components. The AFR defines the ratio of the amount of air consumed by the engine compared to the amount of fuel.

    A 'Stoichiometric' AFR has the correct amount of air and fuel to produce a chemically complete combustion event. For gasoline engines, the stoichiometric, A/F ratio is 14.7:1, which means 14.7 parts of air to one part of fuel. The stoichiometric AFR depends on fuel type-- for alcohol it is 6.4:1 and 14.5:1 for diesel.

    So what is meant by a rich or lean AFR? A lower AFR number contains less air than the 14.7:1 stoichiometric AFR, therefore it is a richer mixture. Conversely, a higher AFR number contains more air and therefore it is a leaner mixture.

    For Example:
    15.0:1 = Lean
    14.7:1 = Stoichiometric
    13.0:1 = Rich

    Leaner AFR results in higher temperatures as the mixture is combusted. Generally, normally-aspirated spark-ignition (SI) gasoline engines produce maximum power just slightly rich of stoichiometric. However, in practice it is kept between 12:1 and 13:1 in order to keep exhaust gas temperatures in check and to account for variances in fuel quality. This is a realistic full-load AFR on a normally-aspirated engine but can be dangerously lean with a highly-boosted engine.

    Let's take a closer look. As the air-fuel mixture is ignited by the spark plug, a flame front propagates from the spark plug. The now-burning mixture raises the cylinder pressure and temperature, peaking at some point in the combustion process.

    The turbocharger increases the density of the air resulting in a denser mixture. The denser mixture raises the peak cylinder pressure, therefore increasing the probability of knock. As the AFR is leaned out, the temperature of the burning gases increases, which also increases the probability of knock. This is why it is imperative to run richer AFR on a boosted engine at full load. Doing so will reduce the likelihood of knock, and will also keep temperatures under control.

    There are actually three ways to reduce the probability of knock at full load on a turbocharged engine: reduce boost, adjust the AFR to richer mixture, and retard ignition timing. These three parameters need to be optimized together to yield the highest reliable power.

    as an aside off boost the afr should be around 11.2:1, this should go to around 13.9ish on boost.

    - - - Updated - - -

    n.b you always run a little rich.

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  13. #12
    'VXR' Member Vegas's Avatar
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    Will go and try from cold now, and upload a video to show issue. Then if ou still think same I will adjus fuelling

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    'VXR' Member Vegas's Avatar
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    Dodgy revs this morning again. Cut out twice before sorting itself out idol wise. Turned fuel up a bit didn't seem to make any difference.

    Is quite bit of clear liquid coming from exhaust, but I assume that's condensation, keeps being started and not actually driven
    http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o...ps0868971d.mp4

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    'GSi' Member
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    Watching that video, obviously our cars are totally different but mine idles like that unless on the choke on first start and I thought that was down to incorrect fuel/air mixture as my fuelling is well out at the moment

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    'VXR' Member Vegas's Avatar
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    Less than 1min later, it's sorted itself out?

    http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o...psd6bd51dc.mp4

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    Diesel lover Hardcore's Avatar
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    Is it maybe just running rough now at cold due to the amount of mods that's been done to it?
    There was a guy who used to live local to me with a Sierra RS500 Cosworth pushing about 400Bhp. I seen it sitting outside and running rough and he said that's one of the joys of a high modded engine. It ran rough until heated up then sorted itself and couldn't really drive it until it was heated up.

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    'GSi' Member
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    Your last vid when you get out of car and go to engine bay does look like what's been said mate "fueling" noticed the engine is moving / vibrating as if it's about to stall or not getting a nice feed of fuel. Have you tried yet increasing the fueling even if it's by a small amount?

  19. #18
    Administrator Dave's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vegas View Post
    Less than 1min later, it's sorted itself out?

    http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o...psd6bd51dc.mp4
    My goodness that's incredibly lean

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    Administrator Dave's Avatar
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    Also, standard LET's run 3bar fuel pressure... Your FPR gauge atm reads just barely over 2bar. And although google is undecided, people generally run 3bar+ on eds chips.

  21. #20
    'VXR' Member Vegas's Avatar
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    So turn fuel
    Up again more?

    Played around for a while. Got a nice switch fired to read fault codes, and running on issue seems to be fixed which is a plus. Every big apart from idle is good.

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